While travelling down the Indus Highway one notices an unanticipated signpost near the small town of Sunn. The signpost, bearing a blurred map and an arrow pointing towards the east reads: Ranikot, world’s largest fort, 35km. Yes, that is right, Pakistan is home to the wrold’s largest fort. Unfortunately, its condition is not something to be proud of.

Structurally, Ranikot is not a fort in the true sense; rather, it is a long, rectangular shaped wall, about 20.5 miles long, which encircles three forts within its perimeter, namely Mohan Kot, Meri Kot and Sher Garh. A major portion of the wall actually comprises the natural rocky cliffs which at places rise as high as 2,000ft above sea level. There are three gates for entrance: Sunn gate, Mohan gate and Aamri gate which also leads to the streams.

Though the journey to the fort is tiresome owing to the lack of tourism facilities, once there one finds plenty to enthrall those with a love for nature and ancient architecture. Hills, valleys, streams, ditches, ponds, fossils, bastions, watch-towers; all these and more can be found inside Ranikot. There is an immense wealth of tourist attractions lying hidden in the crisscross terrains of Khirthar range in Jamshoro district.

The mystery regarding the creator of Ranikot and the purpose behind its construction is yet to be solved. Many archaeologists consider this a pre-historic site. According to Dr M.H. Panwhar, Ranikot was built by the relatively weak rulers of Rai Dynasty during 500-600 BC for defence purposes as they were in conflict with the mighty Sassanians. But the present structure and geological study of the site does not support this claim.

Imdad Ali Brohi and Parveen Usmani are of the view that: “The present structure of Ranikot doesn’t appear pre-historic.” But nearly all historians and archaeologists appear to agree that the present structure was constructed or renovated by Mir Karam Ali Khan Talpur in 1812. Sadiq Gabol, 78, a local resident of the area who has been serving as the only guide there since the last 45 years attributes the construction to some Arab rulers. “Many people come here to visit, but I am waiting for the one who would own Ranikot,” says Gabol.

Forts in Sindh are the worst neglected archaeological sites. Most of the structures have decayed and are lost for ever, but Sindh’s legacy of ancient forts can be seen clearly here at Ranikot. It’s interesting to note that unlike all the prominent forts of Sindh, Ranikot is in relatively better condition. The credit for this conservation does not go to the government for it does not own this ancient site as far as administration is concerned, but to the absence of large scale anthropogenic activities. Only a few scores of people from neighbouring Hyder-abad and Dadu districts come for recreational purposes.

The mystery and majesty of this beautiful structure is yet to be tapped as a tourist resort. In a time when our country is witnessing a harsh decrease in domestic as well as foreign tourism due to terrorism, sites like Ranikot, which are located in a relatively peaceful area of the country, need to be highlighted.

Located in the rain-fed region of the province, the swaths of Ranikot will turn green soon after the monsoon rains and this attracts a large number of domestic tourists.

Once erected for defence purposes, this great wall of Sindh badly needs protection now. Ranikot has been on the list of tentative Unesco World Heritage Sites since 1993, but the only structure installed there by the archaeological department is the signpost bearing a blurred map and a fading description.