All regions are popular for some special delicacies, and from Bihar it's the bihari kebab. This succulent and tender variety of charcoal grilled meat melts in your mouth, giving you just the right 'hot-n-spicy' taste that successfully manages to overwhelm your senses.

A long time ago, when this delicacy was not commercially available, every Bihari worthy of his/her heritage would make bihari kebabs at home at least once a year (Eid for example, if no other special family occasion came up during the year). A new damaad had to be treated to these as well as those who were to be impressed with a grand daawat. Only Biharis knew the secret recipe of this speciality and those who wanted to savour this delight had to beg an invitation to a household that would honour them with a bite of this specialty.

Things have changed since then. Now every kebab house and rollwala, no matter how unworthy of the name, sells bihari kebab of some kind — as if the kebab has different kinds! There is even said to be a kebab outlet boldly displaying the sign, “Meerut kay special bihari kebab!” Every catering setup and all restaurants offering desi food offer these and you can find them in restaurants all over the globe where there are people from the subcontinent.

So is the bihari kebab all that easy to make? Yes, it actually is. But if it is so easy, then why are Biharis snobbish about it, believing that nobody makes it like they do. Well, nobody makes it like a Bihari simply because everyone tries to come up with his/her own interpretation of what a bihari kebab should be like and the authentic flavour is lost in the attempt. It gets flavoured and too spiced up in new hands.

Frankly, there are no secret spices and special ingredients that go into the making of a bihari kebab — it only requires your special attention and sacred devotion. Let's first get started with the meat itself. You've got to use beef. Mutton just doesn't give the right taste and those who have been happily eating chicken bihari boti at restaurants, here is a news flash a thorough-bred Bihari will never use chicken for this. So give your cholesterol control a break if you want to have this scrumptious delight. Moreover, for a true blue meat eater, there's nothing to beat beef.

Now comes the slices of meat. The slices are similar to those used in making pasanda, but are a bit longer. In fact, the longer the slice the better because then there are less chances of the meat breaking while on the charcoal. The meat is marinated in ginger, garlic and raw papaya pastes, and salt is added a few hours before grilling. Don't marinate it overnight if you are putting raw papaya paste or the meat will get too tender. A little later you add ground red chilli, black pepper (optional), all spice, and onion. But try to squeeze out as much water from this as possible, otherwise the marinade will become too watery and will not stick to the meat.

Every kebab house and rollwala, no matter how unworthy of the  name, sells bihari kebab of some kind — as if the kebab has  different kinds! There is even said to be a kebab outlet boldly  displaying the sign, “Meerut kay special behari kebab!”

The key ingredient that will probably be a revelation for many who don't know how to make this kebab is mustard oil. A few spoonfuls of mustard oil are added to the marinade, and while grilling, the oil is also brushed as soon as possible on the meat if it seems too dry. It helps to give a juicy, grilled texture to the meat.

Special care needs to be taken while putting meat in the skewers as marinating thin slices makes the meat tender and loose ends can easily break off after slightly being cooked on the charcoal. So start with one end of the slice, skewer it, twist it 180 degrees, skewer it again without leaving too much meat hanging and keep doing the same till the strip is done.

Those who can't use charcoal can use an oven, and in the end put a burning piece of charcoal in the pot with the cooked kebabs, put a few drops of oil on it and cover immediately. You can get the aroma of a charcoal grilled kebab although the taste and texture may not be the same.

As for how these kebabs are eaten in the most authentic way; the world eats it with parathas, naans and rotis, but Biharis truly enjoy it when served with plain boiled rice and daal! However, they do have a special roti to go with this kebab, and that is the bakarkhani roti, a real tough one to roll courtesy its endless layers. These two royal dishes are a must for special guests, like a new groom or bride and their family.

Another little secret is the roti which is a by-product of this kebab. It comes with a distinct flavour and is easy to make. There is always a lot of marinade left over so simply add wheat flour to it and make parathas or puris - the choice is yours and the flavour is yummy.

This is one food which is distinct, yet so very simple. But with time, people have spiced it up so much that now its real flavours are found only in the homemade variety.