KARACHI: Soft winter sun on our backs, 'Ballad du Paris' playing softly in the background, and the aroma of freshly baked quiches and baguettes in the air had a way of transforming the lush greens of Alliance Française de Karachi to Place de la Concorde on Sunday morning.

The ladies of the Karachi Accueil Association (French Speaking Women’s Association) have been arranging bazaars like these since 2012 and they were behind this particular cultural transcendence as well. The association has played an integral role in introducing French language, life and culture to Karachiites for the last 35 years.

Stalls at Alliance Française de Karachi. – Photo by author
Stalls at Alliance Française de Karachi. – Photo by author

Despite the fresh produce/assortment of cheese on sale and the fashionable ladies in attendance, a sense of melancholy pervaded the fair.

It's been a hard few weeks for the Pakistanis and the French and it was made only tougher for the organisers when a strike was called out last minute by the MQM on the same day as the event. Perhaps that's why most stalls stayed unmanned and the crisp white garden chairs remained just as crisp all morning.

The thin crowds were made up of French and Pakistani guests who started their strolls by first sprinkling roses on the grass against a black backdrop.

There were a wide array of stalls to shop from. – Photo by author
There were a wide array of stalls to shop from. – Photo by author

The stall 'Donate a prayer', managed by Leila Khan, the daughter of Seemi Khan, President of Accueil Association, was in remembrance of the Peshawar tragedy.

"It's a way to remind the guests that the proceeds from this event are funding a scholarship for deserving students in the names of victims of the Peshawar attack," said Sahyra Qamar Sultan who has been a member of the Karachi Accueil for the last 10 years.

A young girl smiles as she poses next to her stall. – Photo by author
A young girl smiles as she poses next to her stall. – Photo by author

Every now and then, there were murmurs about the Charlie Hebdo massacre, but when attendees were asked to comment publicly, very few were willing to take the bait.

"We thought of delaying the event since it was so close to the tragedy. But life must go on. And especially events like these must happen regardless of the situation as they are for a good cause," said Sultan who calls herself a brown French.

When asked if she's tempted to head back and live the comfortable expat life in France, Sultan said: "This is home for us. Here we can see ourselves making a real difference."

The stalls were mostly run by local artisans and NGOs such as Behbud, Deaf Reach and Al-Mehrab Tibbi Imdad, and displayed everything from ceramics, scarves, shoes and saris to cards, pottery and quilts.

A customer trying on jewelry at a stall. – Photo by author
A customer trying on jewelry at a stall. – Photo by author

Many of the students from the schools run by these non-profits were attending the event to help sell their art.

"I made this myself," a girl in a wheelchair told me, pointing proudly to a bright orange hair ornament. "We are exceptional children and all of these things you see here today have been designed by us."

A stall displaying handicrafts made by exceptional children. – Photo by author
A stall displaying handicrafts made by exceptional children. – Photo by author

It's by midday that the gardens really start filling up. Ayesha Khan, who manages the RRBK School in Landhi, says: "What you see here at the event behind all the gated walls, this openness and safety, that's how all of Karachi used to look like in my times. I tell my kids that they have been born in an unfortunate time."

Fazila Dada, a housewife, who sits with her bags of shopping, eating a delicious Tarte Tatin said, "No matter what happens, Karachi cannot be dull or dead. Events like these help us come together and recover just a little from the pain."

With a ticket price of Rs350, it's easy for some in the city to recuperate and enjoy a slice of the Parisian life.

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