MINGORA: When Queen Elizabeth II visited Swat state in 1961, she was surprised to see the official gifts of a nifty Swati cap and a purse, presented to her by the rulers of the state.

The first prime minister of Pakistan, Liaquat Ali Khan, who along with his wife Rana Liaqat Ali Khan visited Swat to participate in the coronation ceremony of the last Wali (ruler), was also gifted traditional Swati cloak and Karakul cap.

Swati traditional garments, handicrafts, woolen shawls, caps and embroidery are known for high quality and unique designs because the people, who ruled the state before 1969, developed the same into an industry.

Miangul Abdul Haq Jahanzeb, the last ruler of the state, had not only introduced Swat’s own architecture but also its own garments.

Malak Aurangzeb says the last ruler of Swat asked his father to introduce a cap for the state as there was a Dir cap in Dir state and Chitrali cap in Chitral state

However, Swati cap or Pakol and Swati Karakul, introduced by the state, became so famous that these are not only liked and worn by local people but have also become popular in foreign countries.

The Swati cap known as Swati Pakol and Swati Karakul were not only liked and appreciated by Queen Elizabeth II of England but also by Liaquat Ali Khan, President Ayoub Khan and the rulers of Dir, Hunza and Chitral.

“When Queen Elizabeth visited Swat, Wali-i- Swat, the last ruler of the state, asked my father to make a Swati cap and a unique purse for the royal guest. My father immediately did so and when the queen received the gifts she was really happy to see the neat and stylish work,” says Malak Aurangzeb, the owner of Swat Cap House, which was once the official store of the Swat state.

He showed the purse of the same design, which was gifted to the queen. “This is the purse which was made at that time with the one given to the queen. We have kept it with us as a memorial sign,” he adds.

Mr Aurangzeb says that President Ayoub Khan along with Wali sahib personally visited the shop to meet his father, Malak Fazal Karim Jan, who was the founder of the Swati caps, and thanks him for his high quality work. “President Ayoub would always get four caps during his visit to Swat state,” he adds.

About the origin of the Swati cap, he says that the last ruler of the state, who was enthroned in 1949, asked his father (Malak Fazal Karim) to introduce an emblem cap for the Swat state as there was a Dir cap in Dir state and Chitrali cap in Chitral state.

“After holding discussions with the ruler, my father made the Swati Pakol which was soon approved by Wali sahib and became famous among the Swatis. Since then it is known as Swati Pakol,” says Mr Aurangzeb. He adds that it is now part of the Swat culture.

He says that Wali-i-Swat would often wear Karakul cap, made in Swat but he would like to put on the Swati cap at some officials events of the state.

According to local elders, whatever Wali-i-Swat Minagul Jahanzeb would wear, it would become a fashion in Swat. “Wali-i-Swat was very popular and whatever he used as dress, it would automatically become a fashion among the Swat people. Karakul cap was his favourite and thus also favourite of his people,” says Haji Rasool Khan, an elder, who was an employees of the Swat state.

He says that Wali-i-Swat loved to gift Swati caps, cloaks, shawls and woolen sweater to his guests. Although Swat state was merged into Pakistan in 1969, yet the Swati Pakol and Swati Karakul are still liked by Swatis.

Swat Cap House is as old as the Swat state. According to Mr Auranzeb, his grandfather Malak Abdul Malik opened the shop in the same year when Badsha sahib, Minagul Abdul Wadood, became the ruler of Swat. “It was my grandfather, who stitched the first cloak for the Badshah sahib which became a cultural dress for the elders of Swat,” he says with pride.

The last ruler of Swat also brought a famous stitching book “Encyclopedia of Needlework” by TH Dillmont from France and gifted it to the shop. The book is still present in the shop.

Apart from Swati Pakol, they also export peak cap and Swati Karakul. “We were official suppliers of the state’s army uniform, badges and all other garments. Although we don’t have order for army uniform and other items now, yet our business of Swati cap, Karakul and some other times is still flourishing,” says Mr Aurangzeb.

He says that people living abroad and in other parts of the country place regular orders with them for both the Swati Pakol and Swati Karakul. He adds that Swati cap is really popular among elders besides young people.

“We often can’t meet the demand of the market,” says Mr Aurangzeb. He says that use of Swati cap is becoming a trend among young Swatis as they consider it a token of Swat state. “In winter it becomes a fashion to wear Swati cap,” he adds.

For its unique design and high quality, Swati Karakul has regular customers from other parts of the country. “My father used to wear Swati Karakul for its high quality and attractive design. He had friends in Swat, who would regularly send one for him,” says Zahoor Ali, a resident of Karachi. He adds he personally likes Swati Pakol and wears it in the winter season.

Aurangzeb’s son Mohammad Nawaz has also joined his forefathers’ profession. “I am proud of my forefathers’ profession and I joined it happily. I personally feel happy to see different items, which originated from this shop by my grandfather. I have also learnt to stitch these and now this is my profession which I will pass on to my children as well,” he pledges.

Published in Dawn, March 22nd, 2016