'Fika' on the roof — adding diversity to Karachi's culinary landscape

Published February 5, 2015
Clockwise: View of the roof, mezze platter, Fika style chicken cacciatore, Fika logo. — Photo by Muhammad Ismail courtesy MR Digital
Clockwise: View of the roof, mezze platter, Fika style chicken cacciatore, Fika logo. — Photo by Muhammad Ismail courtesy MR Digital

With so many new restaurants popping up recently in Karachi competing with each other — many forget that restaurant experience is not just about the food on a plate but also about creating an entire experience. Fika's masterful ability to create a distinctive and memorable cultural experience overshadows the fact that the actual food was not exactly to my taste.

Logo of 'Fika on the roof'. — Photo by Muhammad Ismail courtesy MR Digital
Logo of 'Fika on the roof'. — Photo by Muhammad Ismail courtesy MR Digital

Located in the same lane as Koel, Cafe Flo and Patio in Clifton Block 4, Fika's uniqueness adds diversity to the rich culinary landscape of the area rather than making it feel over-saturated with the same type of eatery.

Upon entering the roof area, the eye is immediately drawn to the pale blue walls featuring iconic rickshaw art. — Photo by Muhammad Ismail courtesy MR Digital
Upon entering the roof area, the eye is immediately drawn to the pale blue walls featuring iconic rickshaw art. — Photo by Muhammad Ismail courtesy MR Digital

While other restaurants are either too specialised or too broad, Fika embraces the binary by housing two unique eateries each with a separate approach and style under one establishment. What they offer is the best of both worlds without muddling the two.

Rickshaw art bird motif on the grill. — Photo by Muhammad Ismail courtesy MR Digital
Rickshaw art bird motif on the grill. — Photo by Muhammad Ismail courtesy MR Digital

The ground floor is home to Fika — the bright modern cafe. Minimally decorated and stark white, it is perfect for lunch. It serves standard cafe fare including a variety of sandwiches and pastas and featuring a wonderful sea food chowder which is a must.

The seating follows the same theme in bright fun colours and recognisable motifs. — Photo by Muhammad Ismail courtesy MR Digital
The seating follows the same theme in bright fun colours and recognisable motifs. — Photo by Muhammad Ismail courtesy MR Digital

Recently launched "Fika on the roof" is the polar opposite. On entering the roof area, the eye is immediately drawn to the pale blue walls featuring iconic rickshaw art. The seating follows the same theme in bright fun colours and recognisable motifs. Not only is it beautiful to look at, the decor by artist Muhammad Zeeshan sets a scene and creates an atmosphere.

The decor sets a scene and creates an atmosphere. — Photo by Muhammad Ismail courtesy MR Digital
The decor sets a scene and creates an atmosphere. — Photo by Muhammad Ismail courtesy MR Digital

The ambiance gives an indication of the type of cuisine on offer and the menu reinforces this colourful bold fusion quality. The small focused menu is preferable to the eclectic 8 page ones that are prevalent because the style and tone of the food is instantly apparent. The "desi fusion menu" has hints of Mediterranean, Italian and Mexican flavours all fittingly adapted for the local palate.

The beautiful decor is done by artist Muhammad Zeeshan. — Photo by Muhammad Ismail courtesy MR Digital
The beautiful decor is done by artist Muhammad Zeeshan. — Photo by Muhammad Ismail courtesy MR Digital

The 'mezze platter' is a great deal as it could generously serve four for Rs540 mezze platter. The dips, including hummus, baba ganoush, mutabbal, a tomato chutney and labneh, as well as the pickles (carrot, cucumbers and green chilies) are all made in-house.

Pickles (carrot, cucumbers and green chilies). — Photo by Muhammad Ismail courtesy MR Digital
Pickles (carrot, cucumbers and green chilies). — Photo by Muhammad Ismail courtesy MR Digital

Unfortunately with the exception of the brilliant tomato chutney which expertly balanced the natural tartness of the tomato with rich aromatic spices, none of the other dips really stood out in terms of flavour or texture; they were all creamy and pleasant with pita bread but indistinguishable from each other.

The mezze platter. — Photo by Muhammad Ismail courtesy MR Digital
The mezze platter. — Photo by Muhammad Ismail courtesy MR Digital

'The Lebanese Fish' consisted of a sole fillet cooked to perfection and topped with a savory olive capsicum relish and served with rice pilaf and the most refreshing salad. The bright tart flavours of the fresh cucumbers, tomatoes and onions created complex layers of tastes in contrast to the richness of the fish. The light long grain fluffy rice was good on its own but seemed unnecessarily paired with the sauce-less fish.

Lebanese Fish. — Photo by Muhammad Ismail courtesy MR Digital
Lebanese Fish. — Photo by Muhammad Ismail courtesy MR Digital

The 'Fika style chicken cacciatore' was an interesting interpretation of the classic Italian dish. Perfect for people who enjoy intense flavours, it is piquant without being an assault by overwhelming heat. The 18 different spices used in the sauce blend well to create an unbelievable palette of flavours. Nicely complimented by creamy fettuccini, the cacciatore is admittedly too heavy for me and I could only have a few bites.

Fika style chicken cacciatore.— Photo by Muhammad Ismail courtesy MR Digital
Fika style chicken cacciatore.— Photo by Muhammad Ismail courtesy MR Digital

The intriguing idea of gulab jamun with ice cream did not live up to its promise. There was no real contrast in flavour, texture or temperature to justify the combination. The proportions were also imbalanced; ice cream should serve as the accompaniment and not overwhelm the dessert.

Gulab jamun with a scoop of ice cream. — Photo by Muhammad Ismail courtesy MR Digital
Gulab jamun with a scoop of ice cream. — Photo by Muhammad Ismail courtesy MR Digital

Both the ice cream and gulab jamun were of good quality on their own but they did not really add anything to one another and Rs240 seems a steep price to pay for this. It's probably wise to skip dessert in favour of the paratha which looked delicious. Also on the list to skip are the signature drinks which are overloaded with flavour syrups and much too sweet to complement the meal.

In comparison to other restaurants of its ilk, Fika on the roof is reasonably priced and offers uncommon flavours. While many of the dishes could use fine tuning, owner Abid Merchant has a winning concept and a thoughtful approach to food.

Dining on the roof with a casual comfortable vibe, good food and great value will surely catch on.


Food: 3/5

Ambiance 4.5/5

Value for money 4/5


Hala Syed is a culture critic who writes on television, fashion and food.

Opinion

Editorial

By-election trends
Updated 23 Apr, 2024

By-election trends

Unless the culture of violence and rigging is rooted out, the credibility of the electoral process in Pakistan will continue to remain under a cloud.
Privatising PIA
23 Apr, 2024

Privatising PIA

FINANCE Minister Muhammad Aurangzeb’s reaffirmation that the process of disinvestment of the loss-making national...
Suffering in captivity
23 Apr, 2024

Suffering in captivity

YET another animal — a lioness — is critically ill at the Karachi Zoo. The feline, emaciated and barely able to...
Not without reform
Updated 22 Apr, 2024

Not without reform

The problem with us is that our ruling elite is still trying to find a way around the tough reforms that will hit their privileges.
Raisi’s visit
22 Apr, 2024

Raisi’s visit

IRANIAN President Ebrahim Raisi, who begins his three-day trip to Pakistan today, will be visiting the country ...
Janus-faced
22 Apr, 2024

Janus-faced

THE US has done it again. While officially insisting it is committed to a peaceful resolution to the...