Alert Sign Dear reader, online ads enable us to deliver the journalism you value. Please support us by taking a moment to turn off Adblock on

Alert Sign Dear reader, please upgrade to the latest version of IE to have a better reading experience


A tale of two emirates

Published Nov 12, 2012 01:00am


Your Name:

Recipient Email:

Sharjah is just about the last place on earth I would have associated with books, so I was pleasantly surprised to learn that the Gulf emirate has been holding an annual book fair for over 30 years. This year, the focus was on Pakistan, so a bunch of writers from our country were invited, including this one.

The event was held in the large Expo Centre, and publishers from over 50 countries had set up their stalls. Obviously, the Arab-speaking world was strongly represented, but Indian, Pakistani, Chinese and European publishers were present as well, making it a truly international event.

The Sharjah Book Fair enjoys the active support of its emir, Shaikh Sultan bin Mohammed Al-Qasimi, an enlightened ruler who has been a strong advocate of education and culture. In fact, he is deeply involved in running the American University of Sharjah, his pride and joy. I was invited to speak about my book, Fatal Faultlines, to students at this striking campus, and the facilities were certainly world class. In fact, it is widely considered the finest university in the Arab world.

I was proudly told by a senior faculty member that Al-Qasimi had personally designed much of the campus. I could well believe this as the buildings reminded me of a film set for Arabian Nights with vast domes and large expanses of tiles connecting the various departments. Cleaning and air- conditioning these huge spaces must tax the resources of even this rich emirate. The students I spoke to were extremely bright and articulate; clearly the university attracts the cream of young people from the region.

I was a bit taken aback to learn that the entire faculty was composed of expatriates, and all had some connection to the United States. The student body of over 5,000, too, reflects the demographic diversity of the population of the UAE. Only 15 years old, the university is already playing a big role in producing well-educated graduates.Although I was present for only four days of the fair’s two weeks, I was impressed by the large crowds milling through the Expo Centre. Last year, the event pulled in over 500,000 visitors, and I’m sure this year’s book fair will draw even more. I was asked to join a panel of local journalists for a discussion about the place of cultural reporting in journalism. I was puzzled by the theme, but then discovered that writers had a grouse with editors of the UAE press over the limited space and importance their articles on culture received. I made the point that for me, there was no dividing line between culture and politics: indeed, culture pervades every aspect of our lives.

For years, I had considered Sharjah to be a suburb of Dubai, but after spending a few days there, I realised that the two emirates differ in important ways. Dubai has seen an enormous investment in buildings and infrastructure in recent years. Wide, multi-lane highways and flyovers criss-cross the emirate, and a sleek, modernistic overhead train traverses much of its length. Tall skyscrapers – many of them halted in mid-construction during the recent slump – dominate the cityscape.

Traffic flows quickly in much of Dubai, in marked contrast to Sharjah where narrow roads cause acute congestions, especially in the afternoons when thousands are returning from work in Dubai. Apparently, rents are lower in Sharjah, so people commute daily between the two neighbouring emirates.

But the difference is more than physical: the two tiny states reflect the outlook of their respective ruling families. In Sharjah, traditional values still prevail, and the pace is much slower. Dubai is flashier and more outward looking. Perhaps the difference between the two is best captured by the fact that in Dubai, thirsty foreigners can easily get a drink while Sharjah is completely dry.

This caused considerable consternation among a few members of the Pakistani contingent. But thanks to the generous hospitality of a key local volunteer, evenings were not the sober affairs they might otherwise have been.

Interacting, even briefly, with a marvellously talented crop of young Pakistani writers was great fun. Present, too, were ace photographers Tapu Javeri and Arif Mahmood. Among the Pakistani writers at the book fair were Muhammed Hanif; Raza Rumi; Nadeem Aslam; Salman Ahmad of Janoon, and author of Rock and Roll Jihad; Musharraf Ali Farooqi; and HM Naqvi. Fehmida Riaz and Afzal Ahmed Syed were the two famous Pakistani poets at the book fair.

Pankaj Mishra, the prolific Indian writer, spoke to Raza Rumi about his new book The Ruins of Empire. Sadly, I had a Dawn deadline to meet, and missed the talk as the next day, I was going to the Abu Dhabi Art Fair, an umbrella for scores of private galleries from around the world. Many Arab artists were on display, and I was impressed by the range and quality of paintings on sale. The star of the Sharjah Book Fair for me was Arundhati Roy, the famous Indian novelist and essayist who has been crusading for the dispossessed and the voiceless for years. She has spent a lot of time with Kashmiris and the Naxalites, among others, in her passionate campaign for their rights. Reading from her book The God of Small Things, and speaking about the issues that move her, Ms Roy enthralled the large, standing-room only crowd.

Present in the audience was the Indian consul-general who made a bit of a fool of himself by his long-winded interventions and questions. I have no doubt he was doing so to figure prominently in the official report he would send to the Indian foreign office. To my surprise, Ms Roy refrained from the crushing replies she is capable of, and which he so richly deserved.

Her focus has long been the devastating impact of India’s rapid economic development on the most downtrodden sections of society. She underlined the huge disparities that continue to widen among the rich and the poor, and deplored the selfishness of the Indian elites. Sadly, much the same critique can be made of Pakistan.

Finally, a word of thanks to Elisabet Hohl and Farid Alvie for their organisational skills, kindness and endless patience.


Your Name:

Recipient Email:

The views expressed by this writer and commenters below do not necessarily reflect the views and policies of the Dawn Media Group.

Comments (8) Closed

Saeed Nov 13, 2012 06:42pm
Amen brother. I believe these people have forgotten their heritage. They think that money buys everything and apparently for them it does, as is evident from the authors encomium. This race has destroyed countless generations with their greed, avarice and corrupt corpulent misdeeds. Building the tallest, the biggest means nothing if you don't teach civilized behavior and a measure of humility to your population. They call Asians, miskeen, or servants and kuchra, or garbage. Our government does nit and indeed cannot say anything because all our leaders have investments there. the arabs have bought them all. I thought at least our so called intellectuals will take a stand apparently from the above article they too have succumbed to the glitter of a few pieces of silver. Make of It what you will.
Pradip Nov 12, 2012 09:19pm
If there is one person I would like to meet in India, it has to be Arundhati Ray. She is a class by herself, not only because it is hard for a woman to speak out in the country but especially because, she has always served the cause of those that are the most under-served, bulldozed by big business and politics and not to forget the media by virtue of all pervasive greed. I find it often confounding when my well educated schoolmates, those in the US, often label her as a propagandist - against India. Thanks Irfan, for the nice article.
sam Nov 12, 2012 09:40pm
I read this article because of its title and got the wrong impression that it might be about how UAE in general quantifies a different life for asians than for westerners. I know, I know I should leave it at that but am somehow compelled to leave a note. My parents are from pakistan and I always had a great admiration for UAE as I was growing up in Germany. For me Dubai in particular, was a place that got the balance just right, until I had a client visit in Dubai. I had heard about the double standard and discrimination but wasn't prepaed for what I saw. Arabs are the most racisit, superficial and pathetic lot I have ever seen. And I have done my fair share of travelling. All of those nice commercial on CNN and magazines about arab hospitality, the falcon and tea non-sense is a sorry attempt to portray a society that doesn't exist. My stay was short and was glad when I got out of here. Allot of people would disagree and talk about asians still having a better life than in their own countries, but it is the last place children should be brought up. Growing up with a sense of being second class citizen in 2012!!! Arabs are the scums who would stress brother brother when they see you in London or anywhere in Europe, but their superiority complex is evident in their home countries. No wonder the ummah is at the mercy of the enemy when group that was blessed with the highest leverage is too busy begging for recognition to be a modern state. I pray that one day pakistanis would abandon this hell on earth and the arabs can rot in their empty overpriced structures that never had any economic use.
Sue Sturgess Nov 13, 2012 02:33am
Whether or not alcohol is readily available, should not be an issue for muslims, since they are forbidden to drink it
Khan Muhammad Nov 13, 2012 11:01pm
It will always be an issue for persons like the writer and his group they always seize the moments one should see the national day celebrations of western countries in Islamabad/Karachi how our journalist friends line up to get merry and quench their thirst.
Imran Nov 12, 2012 05:33pm
Chill...........things are not as bad as they may seem.
HADI SAKEY Nov 12, 2012 03:11am
I remained in UAE from 1970 to 1998. Abu Dhabi, Dubai and Sharja have developed from Sand Dunes to skyscrapper. The tallest building that came up in Dubai was the Trade Center which was the land mark of Dubai. A narrow road leading to Abu Dhabi with Gumruk (Customs check point) before Samha. Water was scarce and Electricity you can guess. I am glad to learn that Sharjah has now an American University. Sharja was very wet until 1979. In 1979 all of a sudden Sharjah was declared dry.In Dubai some restaurants were serving drinks but in 1979 they were banned. In those Carlton tower was pulling the crowd. Then the crowd shifted to Carpenters bar in Hayatt. Abu Dhabi is also wet .
human Nov 12, 2012 09:19am
Perhaps the difference between the two is best captured by the fact that in Dubai, thirsty foreigners can easily get a drink while Sharjah is completely dry. This caused considerable consternation among a few members of the Pakistani contingent. But thanks to the generous hospitality of a key local volunteer, evenings were not the sober affairs they might otherwise have been...... I fear for the life of the author because Pakistanis hate to hear the truth.