EPICURIOUS: DESI DUMPLINGS

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Photo by Faryal Diwan
Photo by Faryal Diwan

Dhokli ka saalan is what I go for when I’m looking for something that is snacky but still a meal. Made from flour, cooked in a tomato gravy and topped with a fragrant tarrka [tempering], the dish features dumplings with a desi twist; think ravioli but spiced up to 11 and lighter on the stomach than pasta.

Dhoklis aren’t just a part of Memon cuisine; Karachi’s Gujarati community also cook a version of this dish. In addition, ‘dry’ fluffy dumplings made from sooji [semolina] and served as a savoury snack also form part of the Gujarati repertoire.

It can also be found on the menu in north-west India: Daal dhoklis are popular in Rajasthan and Gujarat, where the dumplings are cooked in daal [lentil stew] such as toor [pigeon peas], masoor [red lentils] or moong [mung beans]. Traditionally, day-old daal is used for the dhoklis — a smart way to upcycle leftovers. Similar dishes such as varanfal and chakolyaa can be found in Maharashtra.

Dhokli Ka SaAlan

Dhoklis can seem intimidating but, rest assured, they’re much simpler than they look at first glance. Not a fan of saalan [gravy]? Make the dhoklis and put them in your favourite daal instead.

Memoni cuisine’s dhokli ka saalan is a light meal that can be savoured on its own or combined with rice

Ingredients

For the dhokli

2 cups besan ka atta (chickpea flour)
2 tablespoons oil
2 tablespoons coriander leaves
2 tablespoons mint leaves
3-4 small green chillies
½ teaspoon cumin seeds
1 tablespoon red chilli powder
¼ teaspoon turmeric powder
1 teaspoon salt
1 ½ cup lassi (yoghurt drink)
1 glass or 250ml water

For the saalan

1 onion, thinly sliced
1 teaspoon cumin seeds
1 pinch or ¼ teaspoon methi dana (fenugreek seeds)
10-12 curry leaves
1 tablespoon ginger-garlic paste
2 tomatoes, chopped
1 tablespoon red chilli powder
1 teaspoon coriander powder
1 teaspoon or to-taste salt
¼ teaspoon turmeric powder
250g yoghurt
2 cups, or as needed, water
Oil, as needed

For the tarrka

1 teaspoon mustard seeds
1 teaspoon cumin seeds
2-3 whole red chillies
15-20 curry leaves

Method

  1. Make the dhoklis. To a mixing bowl, add the chickpea flour and the spices. Add the oil. Fold everything together. Make lassi – add three tablespoons of yoghurt to one and a half cup of water. Whisk thoroughly. Add the lassi to the flour and spices mixture. Stir until blended well and a paste forms. Add water until the mixture resembles thin pancake batter.

  2. Heat oil in a saucepan. Pour the batter in it and cook on high heat until it begins to thicken. Lower the heat to medium and stir continuously for 15 to 20 minutes, until a thick paste forms.

  3. Grease a large, flat, shallow dish. Pour the paste in the dish, spreading it evenly. Flatten with the back of the spoon. Set aside to let it set.

  4. Make the saalan. Heat oil in a cooking pot. Sauté the onion slices until they brown. Add the cumin seeds, followed by the methi dana and the curry leaves. Stir. Add the chopped tomatoes and all the seasonings. Add two cups of water and cook the mixture on medium heat. In a separate bowl, whisk the yoghurt and a cup of water. When the tomatoes have softened and a paste has formed, add the yoghurt mixture. Cook for 10-15 minutes more, until a gravy forms.

  5. Cut the dhokli mixture with a knife in either a criss-cross pattern for diamond-shaped dhoklis or a grid pattern for square-shaped ones. Place the dhoklis in the saalan and let it cook for 5 to 10 minutes more.

  6. Make the tarrka. Heat oil in a frying pan. Add the curry leaves, whole red chillies, mustard seeds and cumin seeds. Fry lightly. Turn off heat and set aside.

  7. Pour the dhokli ka saalan in a serving dish. Spoon the tarrka over the saalan. Serve hot. Eat as is or with rice.

The writer is a former staff member

Published in Dawn, EOS, January 18th, 2026

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