• Shehroze, Sirbaz separately conquer world’s fifth highest peak
• Sirbaz’s manager dedicates latest summit to late Ali Raza Sadpara

GILGIT: Two Pakistani mountaineers Sirbaz Khan from Aliabad, Hunza, and Shehroze Kashif from Lahore made new records by conquering the world’s fifth-highest peak, Makalu (8,485m), in Nepal on Saturday morning.

Following this feat, 20-year-old Kashif has become the world’s youngest climber to have scaled five of the tallest mountains within 23 days.

On the other hand, Sirbaz Khan, who aims to scale all the 14 eight-thousanders across the world, is now the first Pakistani to have conquered 11 of them.

His expedition organiser, Saad Munawar, dedicated the summit of the world’s fifth highest peak by Sirbaz Khan to Ali Raza Sadpara, who passed away a day ago.

According to Alpine Club of Pakistan Secretary Karrar Haidri, Kashif, 20, reached Makalu’s top, at 6:56am (PST). He was part of a six-member expedition team, organised by Seven Summit Treks. Other team members were Adriana Brownlee from the UK, Dorota Lidia Samocko from Poland, Gelje Sherpa, Lakpa Sherpa and Namja Bhote from Nepal.

They had started their summit push on Friday and conquered it on Saturday morning.

Earlier, the world’s youngest climber had conquered Makra Peak (3,885m) at the age of 11, Musa Ka Massalah (4,080m) and Chembra Peak (4,600m) at the age of 12, Minglik Sar Shimshal (6,050m) at the age of 13, K2 Gondogoro La (K2 base camp 5,585m) at the age of 14, Khurdopin Pass (5,890m) at the age of 15, Broad Peak (8,047m) at the age of 17, Khusar Gang-Alpine Style (6,050m) at the age of 18, Everest (8,849m), K2 (8,611m) and Manaslu (8,163m) at the age of 19, Kanchenjunga (8,586m) at the age of 20, Lhotse (8,516m) at the age of 20, Makalu (8,463m) at the age of 20.

Sirbaz Khan’s record

Meanwhile, the climber from Aliabad Hunza has now become the first Pakistani to have conquered 11 of the world’s 14 eight-thousanders.

In his latest expedition, he was part of a seven-member team led by Nepalese mountaineer Mingma Gyalje Sherpa (Mingma G) of Imagine Nepal.

Speaking to Dawn, Imagine Nepal manager Dawa Futi Sherpa said Sirbaz Khan from Pakistan, Dong Hongjuan from China, Jill Wheatley from Canada, Mingma Gyalje Sherpa, Dawa Gyalje Sherpa, Tamting Sherpa and Pasang Namgel Sherpa from Nepal reached Makalu’s top on Saturday at 8am (PST).

His expedition organiser, Saad Munawar, said Khan completed the ascent in his usual style, without using supplementary oxygen. “But this success would not be celebrated with any extravagance, keeping in view the tragic demise of legendary mountaineer Ali Raza Sadpara a day ago,” Mr Munawar explained.

“We would also like to dedicate this summit to Apo Ali (Ali Raza Sadpara). All these successes in recent times are possible only due to the hard work and sacrifices of our senior mountaineers. They lit up the small candle of hope when there was nothing but darkness and today that candle has spread light all around,” he added.

In last 22 days, Sirbaz Khan scaled Manaslu and Kanchenjunga in Nepal.

Published in Dawn, May 29th, 2022