NEELUM VALLEY: Hotels are empty and roads deserted at the start of what is normally peak tourist season amidst the towering peaks and lush valleys of Azad Jammu and Kashmir, as the threat of attack from India looms.

Tensions between the nuclear-armed countries have soared since the Pahalgam attack in India-held Kashmir in which 26 people were killed on April 22.

Indian Prime Minister Narendra Modi gave his military “full operational freedom” to respond while Islamabad earlier this week warned they had “credible intelligence” that India was planning imminent strikes.

High season in the cooler climes of the Neelum Valley, the tourist centre of AJK, begins in May as temperatures around the rest of the country rise.

“It’s been a really bad start,” said Muhammad Awais, a 22-year-old photographer at a popular picnic spot.

Tourism drives Neelum Valley’s economy, attracting 300,000 visitors annually

Tourism is the Neelum Valley’s lifeline, drawing over 300,000 visitors each year from all over Pakistan, according to the district administration.

Much of the local population depends on roughly 350 guesthouses, which employ thousands of families.

“Our livelihoods depend on tourism, and without it, we suffer,” Awais told AFP.

“The way things are unfolding is very slow, and it’s affecting our work badly.” This week police and soldiers at army checkpoints barred tourists from entering the valley, allowing only local residents through the checkpoint.

Tourists were instead told to return to the main town of Muzaffarabad.

“It’s extremely disappointing that the government did not warn us or advise against visiting,” said Saleem Uddin Siddique, who travelled from the capital Islamabad with his family. “Our hopes are now dashed,” the 69-year-old retired accountant said.

‘We don’t want war’

Islamabad has denied any involvement in last month’s attack at Pahalgam and the uneasy neighbours have issued a raft of tit-for-tat punitive diplomatic measures.

The two South Asian nations have exchanged gunfire for nine consecutive nights along the militarised Line of Control, according to Indian defence sources.

International pressure has been piled on both New Delhi and Islamabad to settle their differences through talks.

On India’s heavily fortified border, residents of farming villages along the Chenab river have sent families back from the frontier, recalling the terror of the last major conflict between the two nations in 1999.

There has been an exodus of tourists on the Indian side of the border too since the Pahalgam attack.

Indian authorities have heavily promoted the region as a holiday destination, both for skiing in winter and to escape the sweltering heat of the summer.

The AJK government has ordered religious schools to close and urged residents to stockpile food. However, some tourists continued to arrive undeterred.

“We don’t think the threat of possible war is serious,” said Mudasar Maqsood, a 39-year-old factory worker from the eastern city of Kasur, over 630km away, who was blocked along with his friends from entering the valley.

“We should not disrupt our routine life,” he added.

Raja Iftikhar Khan, the president of private tourism association, said the situation could become “extremely dire”.

“This disruption has been devastating for all those tied to tourism,” he said. “We don’t want war — no sensible businessperson ever does”.

Published in Dawn, May 4th, 2025