RAWALPINDI: The narrow streets of the downtown areas, especially in Bhabara Bazaar, Chittian Hattian, Bani Chowk and Saddar bazaar, have many caterers’ shops which are especially busy during Muharram.

They prepare special foods for distributing among passersby and participants of mourning processions as niaz.

The caterers cook the food in large cauldrons placed on fires fed by wood. The food is prepared right on the streets and only some of the caterers have special areas for cooking.

Many dishes are prepared for niaz including haleem, chickpeas and rice, chicken rice and kheer though haleem is the more popular dish for niaz.

People make the dish at home as well for distributing among neighbours, family and participants of the mourning processions.

Haleem is made with various pulses, spices, chicken or beef and wheat all of which are cooked on slow heat for several hours and is served with naan.

The haleem is garnished with chopped green chillies, diced ginger, fried onions and slivers of lemon.

Haleem is also served year long at various restaurants, which also see an increase in demand for the dish during Muharram.

“We make haleem every day but demand increases during Muharram and we try to prepare beforehand for niaz,” said Mohammad Javed, the owner of a restaurant in Saddar.

He said most people preferred the beef haleem.

“Making haleem is not easy and requires time and patience. The pulses, wheat and meat are boiled separately and them mixed and cooked together for a few hours till it becomes a thick paste,” he said.

For many, haleem is a complete meal and should be had with a spoon and for others the dish is not complete without a naan or a kulcha.

“I always like to go to the haleem shops in Saddar and Kartarpura where they make the perfect haleem. In some shops, the chefs boil pulses and add the leftover chicken, so one should know where they use quality ingredients,” said a resident of Saddar Bazaar, Mohammad Israr.

He said haleem was made in homes in the past but now people prefer to get it from restaurants.

“People call caterers to their homes during Muharram and provide them all the ingredients for haleem which they make outside the house,” he said.

A resident of Sarafa Bazaar, Sajjad Ali said many shops near to where he lives are famous for serving the best haleem.

“We do not make the dish at home and always get takeaway from the nearby restaurants,” he said.

Published in Dawn, September 25th, 2017