The shrine of Imam Raza
The shrine of Imam Raza

As the Boeing of a private Iranian airline prepares to land at Mashhad International Airport, a fellow journalist sitting by the window points to the shrine of Imam Raza.

The sprawling complex houses the shrine of the eighth Shiite Imam Ali bin Musa Al Ridha, commonly known as Imam Raza, a descendant of Holy Prophet Muhammad (PBUH). Even from hundreds of miles above, the shrine looks majestic with its golden minarets reflecting the glare of the sun. As we step out on to the tarmac, many women start reciting holy verses in awe of the sanctity of the land where the Imam rests.

The Imam’s shrine is the reason behind Mashhad’s holy feel, and this is what the word Muqaddas that follows it — though unofficially — signifies. Located in Iran’s Razavi Khorasan province, carved out from the Greater Khorasan region in 2004, Mashhad is visited by millions of people every year who come to pay their respects to the Imam.

“Imam Raza’s shrine is visited as much by Sunnis and Sufis as by the Shias,” says Mohammad Amin Tavakoli Zadeh, director-general of public relations at Astan-i Quds-i Razavi.

The Astan-i Quds-i Razavi is the organisation that manages the shrine and also oversees several institutions under its wing such as the museum housing rare manuscripts, and the centuries-old library of the Astan-i Quds-i Razavi.

“Imam Raza held sessions with people from various backgrounds and discussed Islam. For this very reason, he is called the Aalim-i-Ale Muhammad,” he says.

On visiting the shrine, one finds people engrossed in prayer, oblivious to what is happening around them. “I regularly visit Mashhad, I stay for a day, pray at the shrine and then fly back to Tehran,” says Mohammad Jafar Safi from the Iran’s foreign media department. “I owe my daughter’s health to Imam Raza,” he adds.

Apart from Iranian visitors, there are people from Iraq, Lebanon, India, Pakistan and Europe. “We consider ‘pilgrimage diplomacy’ to be modern diplomacy,” Mr Tavakoli Zadeh says, pointing to people from various parts of the world who visit the shrine.

About facilitating pilgrims from Pakistan, the director-general says: “We are constructing a residential complex for pilgrims at Mir Java in Sistan-o-Baluchestan.” Initially, it will accommodate 600 people. However, with time, its capacity will be increased.

According to an estimate, approximately 200,000 pilgrims arrive from Pakistan every year, which is a significant number.

The director-general stressed the need to improve security for pilgrims coming to Iran from Pakistan’s Balochistan province, since many pilgrims have been killed in attacks on buses along the route, he added.

Alternative routes are under consideration for the safety of Pakistani pilgrims, he said, adding that the sea link from Karachi to Chahbahar is an option. However, in order to make this route feasible, a rail link is on the cards from Chahbahar to Mashhad to bridge the distance between the two cities.

Keyvan Khosravi, spokesman for the Iranian National Security Council, said security on the Pakistan-Iran border was very important. “Terrorist elements can create problems for both countries,” he says. “For this very reason we are in direct contact with the Pakistani authorities.”

Ali Asghar, senior consultant to the mayor of Mashhad, says the city has a population of 3.5 million. As many as 25 million pilgrims, including two million foreigners, visit the city every year.

Being the most visited city, around half of the hotels in Iran are located in Mashhad. Besides, it boasts eight industrial zones and a well-maintained infrastructure.

“We consider it our duty to provide the best services to the pilgrims. As a majority of the visitors speak Arabic, we intend to install signboards in Arabic as well and teach drivers both English and Arabic for conversation purposes,” Mr Asghar added.

A ‘Green Pedestrian Path’ will be built from the entry point to Mashhad right up to the shrine of Imam Raza. A metro line is also being constructed, which will be completed next year, Mr Asghar said, while outlining the various development projects being undertaken by the Mashhad Municipality.

“After the designation of Mashhad as the ‘Cultural Capital of the Muslim World’ for the year 2017 by the Islamic Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organisation (Isesco), the need to present Mashhad as a capable host is all the more important for us,” Mr Asghar says.

Isesco, which falls under the ambit of the Organisation of Islamic Countries (OIC), introduced this concept in 2005 when it designated Makkah as the Cultural Capital of the Muslim World. In 2006, it was Isfahan.

Three cities are shortlisted — one from the Arab countries, one from among the African nations and one from Asia and the European region. From these three cities, one is finally selected.

The main purpose of this exercise is to promote a common Islamic identity. “For this, we have taken various measures to bring Islamic countries closer,” Mr Asghar says.

A number of programmes have been outlined that would provide a platform to people from all backgrounds.

In late October, the Mashhad Municipality will host a conference on the Silk Route that will primarily focus on the scientific sector.

In the beginning of 2017, the Ministry of Culture and Islamic Guidance will organise a summit in Mashhad which will be attended by scholars from around the Islamic world. This will be followed by the International Safe Community Conference and the Islamic Conference Youth Forum for Dialogue and Cooperation. In July 2017, the Islamic World Mayors Conference will be held. A Goharshad Cultural Award in journalism is also being planned.

Besides its religious reverence, Mashhad is bestowed with a rich culture, a vibrant economy and reputed universities.

“People like Ferdowsi come to mind when we think of Mashhad,” says Mr Siddiq Baloch, editor of Balochistan Express, Quetta. “For me Mashhad is the place to spend time with my family. It’s not expensive as I just have to cross the border.”

“The city’s cultural heritage draws me to it.”

Published in Dawn, Sunday Magazine, October 23rd, 2016

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