ISLAMABAD: Three mountaineers made history by becoming the first to summit the Nanga Parbat in the winters.

Of the 14 highest mountains in the world, that rise more than 8,000 metres above sea level, K2 and Nanga Parbat are the only two mountains that had never been climbed in the winters before.

At about 3:37pm on Friday, Mohammad Ali Sadpara from Pakistan, Alex Txikon from Spain and Simone Moro from Italy reached the top of Nanga Parbat, a spokesperson for the Alpine Club, Karrar Haidri said.

“It is one of the greatest achievements of all time,” Mr Haidri added.

These three climbers had been part of teams that had come to summit the ninth highest mountain and had given up on their attempts because of bad weather.

However, climbers from two groups had stayed back to make another attempt.

The first team which included Alex Txikon and Mohammad Ali Sadpara was managed by the tour operating company, KR Pakistan.

Their base camp communication manager, Ali Shah also confirmed news about the successful mission.

“It unbelievable but they did reached the top of Nanga Parbat Thursday afternoon,” he said.

The second group, of which Simone Moro was a part, was managed by Adventure Tour Pakistan. Simone, who is known to take winter expeditions, was accompanied by Tamara Lunger, also from Italy. Tamara had stopped a few metres below the top, Ali Shah said.

The climbers started with their expedition in the morning at 5:30am from camp four at 7,200 metres.

Ali Shah said the team will be staying at camp four again on Friday night.

“They will hopefully be back at base camp by Saturday evening,” he added.

Alpine Club spokesperson Karrar Haidri said the window for clear weather on Nanga Parbat was usually small. The climbers were at camp two at 6,200 metres waiting out strong winds and for the weather to improve so they can move forward.

As soon as the weather cleared on February 24, the climbers started towards camp three at 6,700 metres and on February 25, the four climbers had set up camp at camp four. The final trek to the top had begun at 6am on Friday.

According to Karrar Haidri, the first attempt to summit Nanga Parbat was made in the winter of 1988 and that so far 31 such attempts have been made, which is the most attempts in winter on any mountain.

The spokersperson said that Tomek Mackiewics from Poland has made six attempts to climb the mountain in the winters, and could not succeed this winter as well.

Simone Moro has made four attempts to climb some of the highest mountains in the winters.

Mohammad Ali Sadpara is now the first Pakistani to climb a mountain of more that rises more than 8,000 metres in the winters.

Published in Dawn, February 27th, 2016