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For whom the bell tolls

The 16th day of April 1853 is special in the Indian history. The day was a public holiday. At 3:30 pm, as the 21 guns roared together, the first train carrying Lady Falkland, wife of Governor of Bombay, along with 400 special invitees, steamed off from Bombay to Thane.

Ever since the engine rolled off the tracks, there have been new dimensions to the distances, relations and emotions. Abaseen Express, Khyber Mail and Calcutta Mail were not just the names of the trains but the experiences of hearts and souls. Now that we live in the days of burnt and non functional trains, I still have a few pleasant memories associated with train travels. These memoirs are the dialogues I had with myself while sitting by the windows or standing at the door as the train moved on. In the era of Cloud and Wi-fi communications, I hope you will like them.

enter image description hereAcross the slums of Gojra, the memory of a saint is enlivened by a city. Before Tek Singh came and lodged here, it was a deserted place by the pond (Toba in the local language). He made it a point to service thirsty passer-byes from this pond. Years later, his act of charity founded the city, which is now named after him, Toba Tek Singh.

Other than Manto, the story of Toba Tek Singh is also told by a local farmer, Ameer Chand Kohli. In a city of Muslim majority, he headed a well-to-do Hindu family. After the birth of his fifth daughter, Ameer Chand started visiting saints and shrines for a son, who could carry his name. In one such visit to a faqeer, he pledged that if he ever had a son, he would devote him to Sikhism. After a year, a baby boy was born. Ameer Chand named him Bishon Singh and started raising him as a Sikh. Life at the Ameer Chand household became festive during the summers, when all his daughters, along with their children visited Toba for the entire season. The sisters gossiped under the tree and the kids played out in the fields.

Now that the grandchildren of Ameer Chand have dispersed from the shores of Australia to the Islands of West Indies and have taken up residences at Washington and Abu Dhabi, they still remember the favor of that Sikh saint and the summers at Toba Tek Singh.

Like every year, the family of Ameer Chand had gathered at Toba Tek Singh during the August of 1947. One day, on his way back from the fields, he saw a large crowd, smoldering in anguish at the chowk. Standing at the centre of the crowd, a Muslim migrant was telling the story of his journey to Toba. A few women from his convoy had jumped into dark wells to save their honor, while others who chose to live, now told the brutal tale of rape and wrath. Ameer Chand felt that the journey, sufferings and helplessness had cast some permanent features on his face. At his home, Ameer Chand sat in the bethak and discussed with Majhi Ram, the personal servant since ages, about how times had changed.

Before dusk, a few blasts were heard and hell broke loose. Driven by frenzy, was the angry mob, attacking Hindu houses. Everyone ran for their lives, caring the least for luggage. The voice of the crowd drew near, as they ran from street to street. While the crowd increased in number, the alleys decreased. When they reached the last lane, the police finally woke up to action. The Hindu and Sikh population gathered and moved to the Grain Market, a large compound in the city. The police escorted and protected them from people, people who had been their neighbors for generations.

When the stay at the Grain Market prolonged, people started dying of hunger and of disease. Between the man and his creator, hung a feeble layer of canvas, which dare not stop anything, save the prayers. The weather made it impossible to live inside the tent and the young daughters made it impossible to live outside. With every passing day, rations decreased and ailments increased. Ameer Chand recalled his childhood maulvi of the madressah, who had taught him that wars in India were always amongst the kings and the people stayed out of it. This time, however, the kings had made peace amongst themselves, while the people killed each other.

Everyone worried about Majhi Ram, who was missing since the first day of the riots. No one knew that Majhi Ram had converted to Majhi Khan and sided with his new brothers in faith to loot Ameer Chand’s house.

After a two-months stay at the camp, a special refugee train arrived from India. Their lips trembled with silent prayers and their bodies shivered with fear of the unknown as they filled the congested compartments. This was common to railways stations across India, that summer. Every one of the millions who crossed this new found boundary had thousands of stories to tell and everyone carried these stories on his person. Parched lips, mucus in their eyes, dust patterned on their facial features, dark lines of burns on their necks and a saltish flavor on their tongues, were all the shades of these stories. Taps at railway stations had dried up long ago and water was not found anywhere enroute.

enter image description hereOnce the train left Toba and reached Lahore, it awaited its fate at the station. The safety of the outbound train was conditional to the inbound train. If the train, coming from India, safely made it here, this train could whistle off but if it carried corpses, it was to be returned with the same stock.

The whistles of the arriving train were heard with anxiety and soon people were spotted leaning against the footrest. The refugee special was allowed to leave for Patiala via Amritsar. At Patiala, the passengers got off the train amid celebrations, and were garlanded. The scene reminded Ameer Chand of the Lahore Railway station and he had a feeling of Déjà vu. The large view mirrors in the train had the etched acronym of the NWR (North Western Railway). For the first time, in two months, Ameer Chand saw his face closely. The features of that displaced person caused by the journey, suffering and helplessness had started to appear on his face too.

“Toba Tek Singh” as told by Ameer Chand is now more than 60 years old but that of Manto appears fresh.

The story of “Toba Tek Singh” apparently focuses on a mentally unstable old man, but within its words, it carries the piercing pain of partition. Caught between the geographical divide and emotional trauma, Bishen Singh disparagingly tells the awful truth of politics. As an inmate at a mental facility in Pakistan, his heart betrayed his body and his soul divorced his identity. This probably was the toughest of partitions.

Having little knowledge about politics and the politicians of his time, Bishen Singh had no one to apportion the blame so he took it out upon himself.

When Manto read “Toba Tek Singh” for the first time in the Pak Tea House, he had worn out of his age. Before reading the last lines in his classy dramatic voice, he paused to inhale the silence in the hall and wiped the tears that rolled down silently.

“Around Dawn, Bishen Singh uttered a shrieking sound and collapsed. Officers ran toward him and saw that the man who had been standing for the past 15 years now lay still, on his chest. On one side, across the barbed wire, was India and on the other side, was Pakistan. In between the two, on a piece of land, which was neither Pakistan nor India, lay Toba Tek Singh”.

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Muhammad Hassan Miraj is a federal government employee.

The views expressed by this writer and commenters below do not necessarily reflect the views and policies of the Dawn Media Group.

Comments (61) Closed

Cynical Jun 10, 2013 06:27pm

Toba Tek Singh will live for ever, sadly for wrong reasons.

SBB Jun 10, 2013 07:05pm

Simply terrific writing. Description of the choice between living in the tent in the heat, and having daughters which made it impossible to live outside is simply the choice that millions of people had.

Manto was taught to us in our school in Bombay. It was in Hindi and I never understood it then, but our teacher spent more time on Manto than any other author.

Mahji Ram to Mahji Khan - truth stated simply. These things about looting and not about religion.

John Jun 10, 2013 07:20pm

Thank you for bringing out the cruel stories of partition from both sides. Was it British who divided the Hindus & Muslims or was it the partition?

kamljit Singh Jun 10, 2013 08:35pm

Miraj Sahib : this story is too painful to be read again. I wish if Jinnah of Direct Action and Gandhi who accepted this division of the humanity , not of the land, must be reading your writings and cursing themselves .They must be seeing in each others' eyes to convey what they did to the 1/5th of the human race. I wonder if the present day politicians realize the results of fanning religious fires.Or as Mao has stated the 'religion is the opium 'of the weak an we must shun its all varieties .

Rev. Eldrick Lal Jun 10, 2013 08:44pm

Unfortunately, this insane story is not a tale from a novel. This is a true narrative.

mcintoshegnr Jun 10, 2013 09:49pm

Gripping, interesting, well written. Well done, dear Miraj.

Krish Chennai Jun 10, 2013 09:47pm

@kamljit Singh: What do you suggest ? We try to undo the past and try and rectify the wrongs that may or may not have been committed at that time ? Or we just forget this kind of bitter past, whatever happened, and try to get on with the future, irrespective of what the rest of the world ( including South Asians who migrated to greener pastures once for all ) think of us ?

kamljit Singh Jun 10, 2013 11:21pm

@Krish Chennai :Dear Krish I want to say that present generations should learn that religion should not be mixed with politics.

Khan of Kalabagh Jun 11, 2013 01:04am

Subhan Allah

a wonderful yet an emotional piece of art, really loved it. Sometimes i wonder if the partition was done under the British Raj in the form of a splitting the united India in two provinces and should have remained under the British Raj for a year and all the migration should have been done during that one year, it would have saved hundreds of thousands of innocent people.

Hoshiar Singh Jun 11, 2013 05:26am

@mcintoshegnr: Yes, indeed. We need writers like Miraj to make India and Pakistan's average citizen to wake up to the act that we can't keep the current bad blood going for ever. We can be each other's keeper, as we should be, if we want. There s much too common between Indians and Pakstanis than our leaders and media dare speak. Instead they have put their efforts in promoting division amongst us. i wish that there be many more writers like Miraj in both countries to rekindle kindness and positive feelings towards each other.

brar bs Jun 11, 2013 06:07am

Dear miraj sahib,

A wonderful information for the present genera tion. The greed for power by the then leaders is responsible for the tragedy. Let us live in peace now at least when we know what is in our best interests.

Gupta Jun 11, 2013 07:07am


Your description of true stories of during 1947 of Pakistan (Toba Tek Singh, Sialkot, Lahore etc) are always heart rendering. They invariably brings tears to my eyes. I am also a survivor of a similar true horrible event. I was born in Mirpur (AJK) and was an eye witness to similar scenes and spent 1947-48 in notorious Alibeg Camp (AJK). You and your readers can read my memoirs: "Forgotten Atrocities: Memoirs of a Survivor of 1947 Partition of India." by Bal K. Gupta on or as e-book or paperback

Ehsan Jun 11, 2013 10:15am

Your blog is certainly the best on Dawn.

kashif iqbal Jun 11, 2013 12:50pm

i am from toba tek singh....i hv not heard about any such kind of incident from my grand ones.....but the people who migrated from indian punjab suffered the brutality and hostility of sikhs especpicalluy in amratsar ,feroozpur and jhalandar....

kashif iqbal Jun 11, 2013 12:53pm

@Cynical: why man.....toba will remember always for its good reasons...toba tek singh has the highest literacy rate in punjab...

akhtar Jun 11, 2013 12:56pm

After reading the stories of partition one is completely tantalized and the mind stops working but it repeatedly asks one question who was responsible for it? I have met many refugees from both side of the divide and all of them had similar stories to narrate. I take all of them true so by so that I was traveling from abu dhabi to shicago and boarded Ittehad air line flight which originated from dehli. a lady was sitting on my left we started speeking to each other in Punjabi and told me that her family lived in some bajwa village followed by the stories i had heard many times before. She completed her story and asked me are you coming from dehli and i said no I am coming from Lahore. Her expression changed as if I was the one who perpetrated the atrocities.I told her that I was only one year old at that time and had no role in it and when I asked her how old she was ? For awhile she was quite and than said she was born in Chandigarh year after partition. mr krish Imagine we are second generation,we have no personal experience of the event still we are nurturing hatred. this exactly our colonial ruler aimed at. A super power of its time with field marshal in Ghq dehli could not manage shifting of ten millions people with safety with in the country under their control. It sufficiently proves their mal intention. Let us do some good work for our future by identifying the culprit and apportion the blame to him and take measures to mend the wrongs we inflicted on each other.

makraja Jun 11, 2013 01:19pm

Wa mairaj sahib What a narration! This time around when i visit pakistan i will try my best to pay you a visit and kiss those hands which the Good lord has given such an ability to bring lost lost and forgotten times of once what was our great country The trauma of partition will live as long as mother earth will in one form or the other People say it is water under the bridge now and times have moved on but I disagreefor as long as we dont have a cathartic process, tell the honest truth, admit to our atrocities and shortcomings we cant move in any direction at all. It also serves us a reminder that even after 65 years we are a people who cant find peace Maybe the departing hindus and sikhs who we have promised to look after, to whom we had a pledge to protect cursed us unknowingly that we may not have any peace at all It is just like the story of louis mountbatten whom it is said about that he was cursed not to have an eternal rest ie not to have a grave! Please keep on writing and telling these stories I am sure one day they will gather enough people to question what happened to us adios

makraja Jun 11, 2013 01:22pm

@kamljit Singh: well said

Hasan Jun 11, 2013 01:43pm

Very good reading

Babar Jun 11, 2013 02:21pm

@ Author:

I dont know where but ive read it somewhere before.

Bashir Manzar Jun 11, 2013 02:27pm

Very interesting and moving. Though I have grown up reading Mantoo's Toba Tek Singh and other partition related stories, Ameer Chand's narrative is and addition. Religious frenzy yes, but more than that it had been greed and the ruthless animal within the humans. (Though animal rights activists will not agree with me). Be it Majhi Ram who becomes Majhi Khan to loot or the guys in Manto's Khol Do, who did the same to that unfortunate girl who was raped by people from the other religion. Lust, greed and all that. Though painful, people of the sub continent would do good to themselves and their coming generations if they move ahead, recalling such brutal incidents only with a conviction that these would never be allowed to be repeated again.

Mahmood Jun 11, 2013 02:49pm

MHM, please also highlight the sad stories of the refugees from India, particularly from East Punjab.

Parvez Jun 11, 2013 02:56pm

@John: Both one and the same thing.

Koi-kon Jun 11, 2013 03:19pm

@Ehsan: Thank You, I am honored

Swapneel Jun 11, 2013 03:24pm

@kamljit Singh: What did Gandhi do to effect the partition. The one and only person to be blamed for the Partition is Mr Jinnah and his bases less two nation theory.Gandhi never believed in the partition of land nor the humanity.In fact till his last breath partition of the humanity hurt him more than the partition of land.Yes the then congress leaders aka Mr Nehru and Sardar Patel for their adamant nature do share the blame of partition ut not Gandhi not him. Even then what Nehru or Sardar stood for actually worked out for us,but Jinnah's vision of a all encompassing secular Pakistan has been lost.

jawedeqbal Jun 11, 2013 03:45pm

jala hai jism jahan dil bhi jal gaya hoga kuredtay ho jo ab khak justjoo kiya hai.

Cynical Jun 11, 2013 03:57pm

@Ehsan: Agreed. Jun 11, 2013 10:24pm

Mr. Miraj .I have read your article for the first time.But I do think that from now on I can hardly wait for a week for a great new article which envisions the great once undivided PUNJAB(where people had only one religion PUNJABI) and then 1947 which eroded that punjabiyat to such an extent that brothers become enemy.Land of Bulleh Shah and guru nanak soaked in blood by some opportunist people and nearly an entire generation had to pay the price.

As a Punjabi and descendant of one of the very people (migrated from Sialkot-Puran nagar) I really want to visit my ancestral town of Sialkot.Is it the very town which I have been told by my grandparents? Is it the town where muslim sikh hindus use to celebrate lohri and eid among themselves?

and I also want to witness the hospitality and beauty of Lahore and its people (as said at that time those who haven't been to lahore are yet to be born)

and lastly I thank to dawn and you( a real punjabi and true messiah) for bringing a nostalgic punjabi culture which fill tears in eyes of every punjabi(undivided by Line of control)

True punjabi

Vishal (Delhi-India)

HM Jun 11, 2013 11:24pm

@John: Hindus dominance and suppression of Muslims led to the partition. MA Jinnah wanted United India but Nehru were not willing to give any thing to Muslims. Same story Now.

MUKESH Jun 12, 2013 01:20am

mirja sahib, i have simply fallen in love with ur writings....pls keep writing....writers like u can really play a great role in building those much required my schooltime i like most others thought that pakistanis r similar to north indians in every manner except for deep hatred which all of them have for india in their heart and i am sure same must be the feelings about indians of many pakistanis who have never got the chance to know stories from other side......but now i know that we r same in every manner including our feelings.....same mix of love,hatred,misunderstandings,on both sides of father.....

Shah Jun 12, 2013 01:28am

@kamljit Singh: It was not QaideAzam nor Gandhi who killed millions of people. It was people like you and me who to this day are blind with hate. Pakistan and India, two countries representing two civilizations in one subcontinent, is a fact.

Taimoor Jun 12, 2013 11:09am

@Swapneel:Mr. Jinnah was the sole torch bearer of the Hindu-Muslim unity before Gandhi and Nehru through their acts and behaviour makes him (Mr. Jinnah) realize that the only option left for Muslims is to separate from both Hindu and British Raj.

kamljit Singh Jun 12, 2013 11:37am

@Swapneel: Gandhi should have stood his ground rather than succumbing to junior leaders' pressure.Independence could have been delayed.

Manish Jun 12, 2013 02:29pm

The weather made it impossible to live inside the tent and the young daughters made it impossible to live outside.

Any sub-continental father knows how much feeling and pain this line very true.

Iqbal Jun 12, 2013 02:51pm

Punjab suffered immensely from Partition. Even with a united culture and language, greed, hatred and religion divided us. We are still recovering from that shock.

In Pakistan, while Punjabis dominate the military and other spheres of of power and influence, we get to these places by disowning and being ashamed of being Punjabi. We are even ashamed of speaking our Punjabi language outside the home. This is the reason that while Punjabi is the language of a majority of Pakistanis, it has no official status even in the Province of Punjab. I hope in the future, we can recover from the Partition period and once again be proud of shared Punjabi identity and language.

gary Jun 12, 2013 03:50pm

@HM: Looking at what had been happening in the last 65 years, I must say it was most wise decision on the parts of Nehru and Patel to divide the country. With one third of muslims in India creating such a mayhem, God knows what would happen if they were all in full. Muslims in general are backward and they drag others down. It is not only happening in India, but also in the west.

Azm Aftab Jun 12, 2013 04:29pm

A heart rendering piece! Excellent!

RK Chaturvedi Jun 12, 2013 04:56pm

I have read Manto but the story of Ameerchand has been far more touching. Times have changed and now not the kings but people fight each other. Do not know when and how will this end?

Atif Aleem Jun 12, 2013 06:06pm

@MUKESH: "but now i know that we r same in every manner including our feelings.....same mix of love,hatred,misunderstandings,on both sides of father....." Well, Mr. Mukesh, if you and me have reached on the same conclusion then why don't we play our role, as a commoner and as the real heir to our common history and folk heritage? Why we always offer our little brains to our rulling elites to use for speading hatred against each other for their petty interests? Why don't we unite and stand up against our respect "policy-makers" and why don't we, common Hindus, Muslims and Sikhs, come close to each other rejecting all darkness of hate???? Atif Aleem

siddharth Jun 12, 2013 06:26pm

Great article. Hope such writing make people understand that others are human too. Hope we move beyond terrorism to something more meaningful. Who knows, Berlin wall may crumble again!

Ahmed Jun 12, 2013 07:28pm

@Shah: Indian and Pakistani leaders (including Gandhi and Jinnah) as well as the departing British under Mountbatten were responsible for law and order during the transition. They all failed to do their job. And ordinary people were victims of thugs on both sides. It is about time we came to recognize this ugly reality.

Sheheryar Muftee Jun 12, 2013 07:54pm

Great piece. For those who read Hassan Miraj's blog and conclude that the miseries of the people of the sub-continent were a gift from Mr. Jinnah are mistaken. Another way to look at his writing is to appreciate our link to our history and our places that people of sub-continent hold dear and understand that things that may have passed have lessons for us in the future. There is no point in arguing about two nation theory or partition or Nehru or Jinnah. These great people have lived their lives, made their choices and are now are with their Maker accounting for their actions. I am glad that Pakistan came into being and we will forever be in debt to Quaid-i-Azam for his sacrifices and his efforts in protecting Muslims in the sub-continent.

The real question now is, what do we do with our lives? Do we prolong our mutual conflicts and promote hate or do we find ways and means to come together? Why cannot there be open trade, open borders? Why cannot there be a resolution to Kashmir? If there can be a Muslim President in India and a Hindu Chief Justice in Pakistan, why cannot we solve other issues? Why cannot I visit Batala in the old Mohalla Muftian without a government paper where some of my ancestors lived? Why cannot I visit where my grandfather was born? He was 21 when he left everything that they owned, took his family and migrated to Lahore, never looked back. But always wanted to have a link to the place where he was born, where his father and other family members were buried. As we read these excellent articles, we need to look towards the future, not the past. The past will never come back and there is no point in arguing about it. Remembering it is enough. The future is yet to come. Let us argue about solutions to our problems.

kamljit Singh Jun 12, 2013 08:13pm

@Shah: True leaders recognise the 'nabaz' of their followers. They should have what is going to happen.Or they should have withdraw their agitation. Creation of Bangladesh has proved enough on the subject of civilization. More over a simple labourer who earned his bread toiling to do with these theories. Was he asked that he was ready to sacrifice the honor and life of his daughter or mother for this partition. Even one innocent life was more precious than to prove these theories.

kamljit Singh Jun 12, 2013 08:14pm

@HM: That domination was a scare for the ruling elite . not for the common man. How about India was ruled by invading Muslim minority rulers for thousand years.

kamljit Singh Jun 12, 2013 09:33pm

@HM: And the Muslims of Pakistan gave everything to their brethren in east wing (Bangladesh)! Jinnah who founded Pakistan state on religious basis made a U turn the day he came in to power. AUG 14 ,1947 he said' Religion is nothing to do with the affairs of the state" What a leader, confused his fellow country men by one sentence.

Brotherfromanothermother Jun 12, 2013 10:45pm Vishal, my friend... As a Sialkoti and as a descendant of a staunch Punjabi family still adhering to the Punjabi tradition and culture, I welcome you to visit your roots again. Peace!

ashraf agha Jun 12, 2013 11:39pm When the Indian cricket team visited Pakistan sometimes in the 90's, I remember Navjot Singh Sidhu saying on TV commentary that he had not visited any country (specially Punab) where he was greeted with so much hospitality and love that from Taxi drivers to restaurants to cloth merchants, no one was willing to take money for their services. He was over whelmed by their attitude towards an Indian

Raj Jun 13, 2013 12:14am

@Bashir Manzar: I don't think mentality of general public in the contenent changed a bit through thease years since partison. Given the chance and the same situation prevailed at that time, people will act in the same manner they acted in 1947.

Raj Jun 13, 2013 12:13am

@Bashir Manzar: I don't think mentality of general public in the contenent changed a bit through thease years since partison. Given the chance and the same situation prevailed at that time, people will act in the same manner they acted in 1947.

Pakistani Jun 13, 2013 03:47am

Hi. I am from Sialkot and I live near Puran Nagar. I would love to answer any questions you have about your ancestor's house, places they lived in etc. Do your grandparents remember the address/specifications of their house? That might help to search for it and I can take pictures and send it to them.

Zalim Jun 13, 2013 04:16am

@John: as long as britishers were in india everybody lived in peace no fights. It was only when britishers left they started fighting because of dim brains.

ali Jun 13, 2013 05:32am

It humbles me everytime i read partition stories. I am generation X and was always "taught" in schools about sufferings that my forefathers went through coming from india. Only as i grew up, i read more on how mobs on this side of the border tormented people going to other side. No one in particular was a victim, everyone no matter what faith was the victim.

nair Jun 13, 2013 07:30am

@Sheheryar Muftee: A better future can be built only by analysing the past. This will help to avoid making the same mistakes made in the past. A three dimention thinking is always better brother.

nair Jun 13, 2013 07:43am

@kamljit Singh: it was not Mao, but Karl Max said it! Just to refresh your memory Mr. Singh. Thank you.

Vikas Sharma Jun 13, 2013 08:12am

You have a flair for words.A good man and a hope for Pakistan

Gurdeep Khullar Jun 13, 2013 09:01am

@MUKESH: I absolutely agree with Mukesh. Not only the story is touching, Miraj sahib's Mastery of language and superior expression is laudable. Please keep it up sir you give me hope for the future of our subcontinent. Please accept our accolades for a job well done.

Emron Hashimi Jun 13, 2013 10:59am

@kashif iqbal: That more Muslims were killed in partition is a fact. But to apportion blame on the Sikhs is not a historical truth. Brother go check the historical results first. Sikhs only started attacking Muslims when Muslims systematically started to burn Sikh dwellings and slaughtered the Sikhs in Rawalpindi and Hazara. It was a particular train packed with dead Sikhs that arrived in Amritsar that started the mayhem in Punjab because the Sikhs were not going to take it lying down. Also note that not a single Muslim in Muktsar was touched. And there were thousands of Punjabi Muslims in Muktsar and they were all fed and clothed by Sikhs in the Gurudwaras.

Feroz Jun 13, 2013 03:16pm

@Sheheryar Muftee: I do not think any Hindu was ever made Chief Juctice of the SC. There was one who acted as one till the vacancy was filled, but he was never considered for the post.

Feroz Jun 13, 2013 03:20pm

@gary: Where are you getting your facts from ? Nehru and Patel never made any claim they wanted to divide India for any reason religious or otherwise.

Baber Khan Jun 13, 2013 05:28pm I am not a Punjabi, but my eyes get filled every time I read his blog!! Isn't he an incredible narrator?!!

Baber Khan Jun 13, 2013 05:30pm

@ashraf agha: Sidhu has always been a very popular Indian cricketer in Pakistan. I wonder if a common Indian visitor will receive a similar treatment in Pakistan.