World-over, fashion is evolving as a recessionary result and this makes sense; just yesterday I skimmed through an MSN article titled Recession Style Dos and Don`ts and I quote “Do realise it`s ok not to wait for the markdown if you find a piece you love and will wear again and again and again!” Having moved back to Pakistan when even the biggest industries have had to cut down on expenses, I find fashion has taken a backseat as various magazines have laid off their best editors, big-budget fashion shows are hardly happening, and nobody wants to place a bridal order for Rs0.3 million as there are bills to pay, a certain lifestyle to maintain, time to save and errands to run. So fashion in Pakistan has a new answer in these hard-hit times prêt a porter.

Unfortunately, this phenomenon is generally `new` in the country and a number of fashion designers have finally woken up to smell the coffee. Lahore-based designer Sara Shahid says, “I find prêt to be a little overrated here. When I started Subculture with Saba that was what we did ready-to-wear formals and semi-formals. Prêt is given so much importance because everyone has only now woken up to it. Also, it`s quite misunderstood.”

After having returned from the UK equipped with a degree in fashion and merchandise, Sara stepped foot into the business some 11 years ago as she entered into partnership with Saba of Subculture, a brand eventually swooned into a lifestyle-oriented one and offering everything from bed linen to menswear, and from semi-formals to accessories. It is no surprise that Sara`s core passion for serious clothing eventually created Sublime. “I started out from my lounge with made-to-order clothing and then eventually moved to a studio, then to a flagship store on M.M. Alam Road in Lahore to The Designers in Karachi and Islamabad, and then the PFDC Boulevard Mall. Sublime`s first year saw an LSA nomination, continuing to make it to the prêt category for the next three years.”

It`s hard to believe that the label has never won the award, but with prêt being a newborn entity in local fashion, it doesn`t yet look seriously competitive. “I did expect a win but the fact that I didn`t make it... I can`t really say anything though I have always stood by these awards,” says a slightly dismal Sara. But that does not mean the picture is bleak for progress is not marked by local award ceremonies but by brand power and response from the target market. In Sara`s case it`s a job well done as Sublime`s signature contemporary design, cut and style aimed at women is an insignia known for quality fashion and a reflection of thought -- not just aimless, directionless fashion.
Also, Sublime`s conscious efforts towards social responsibility hasn`t gone unnoticed. Social responsibility comes off as an alien concept in a country like Pakistan considering political turmoil happens every two months, but Sarah has meshed it with fashion. The label has been there and done that, among its many endeavors being a fashion shoot evolving around the poetry of Rumi, outfits inspired from Buddhism, and more importantly the Sublime Women Entrepreneur Project - pieces handcrafted by women who possess skills but lack the opportunity of being able to pursue a career beyond their homes.

Live Life, Live Sublime was a recent winter collection setting trends this season by utilising the medium of fashion as a platform to reflect a social situation - a commentary-based collection which was showcased on the PFDC ramp in Lahore in December 2008 to much acclaim.

So as the show must go on - recession or no recession - it`s apparent that Sublime is not going to do bling just because it`s the `it` style to wear, or yellow because of its fabulous retail forecast. Pumping thought and passion into her signature style, Sara has the Real Women collection in the pipeline, an ode to the very real Pakistani woman who is a mother, a professional, a wife and a daughter. Acknowledging the role of the woman of today who has so much on her plate, the upcoming collection is a result of the presence of many women who have inspired Sara at one point or the other. And so it is that Sublime`s contribution is most welcome - for a very fashionable redefinition that is.