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Walt Whitman’s contribution to American poetry in particular and world literature in general is known to all. He is the creator of many a phrase which have now become proverbial. One of the oft-quoted lines attributed to him is, “Do I contradict myself? Very well, then I contradict myself, I am large, I contain multitudes.” This can also be said about modern-day Karachi. It contradicts itself, yes, and it’s large and it contains multitudes.
The contradiction is stark to the point that it saddens you. The space for the architectural beauties representing the good old days is fast shrinking. It is understandable. What’s not understandable is the disdainful way with which they are being ignored. When something ‘new’ and ‘contemporary’ replaces or towers over them, it is done so with utter disregard, as if the past is merely a time period, not part of history.
One very good example of this observation is the area around the Cantt Railway Station. The series of hotels, old as well as those built not too long ago, is a poignant reminder of how ruthless we can be in pursuit of commercial gains. Come to this part of the city from the Metropole intersection via Fatima Jinnah Road. Go past the PACC building and straight towards the railway station. As soon as you cross the bridge that connects this area to the neighbourhood made for officers of the railway department you will see a line of motels starting from Bombay hotel (already discussed in these pages). Most of these buildings are concrete structures and have nothing special to catch the eye. And this is where your sense of historicity will be put to the test.
Keep looking at these motels, and move ahead slowly. Suddenly you will chance upon a building that has pre-partition features but for some strange reason has indescribably merged with the rest of its neighbours, so much so that it has become difficult to identify it as not contemporary. Once you establish that it is pretty aged, look up with a bit more concentration. You will see that its name is written on top of the structure, but has been smudged so bad that it is very difficult to read it. Ask a shopkeeper and the puzzle will be solved. It is Chetumal Shivaram building.
The building was constructed in 1940. So many changes have taken place around it that they have literally dwarfed it into nothingness. A cursory look will not give you any clue to its classic character because it looks a part of the whole, present scheme of things. The rest of the buildings flanking it are made of concrete, but a couple of them have remnants of stonework in them, which means they were either added to on already existing structures or the original buildings were all but demolished to make way for new ones.
Now move back on Fatima Jinnah Road from where you began your journey. Alongside the bridge you will notice some beautiful stone built houses. People live here and have kept these works of stonemasonry pretty much intact. This is the same line of houses at the end of which there is a known educational institution housed in a colonial structure. The Civil Lines area these days boasts high-rise apartments which eclipse everything else. Having said that, these pre-partition residences too make their presence felt. Before departing from this zone, it will do you no harm if you climb the bridge and stop before going down to the other side. An overhead view of the area will give a clear idea about the sparkling old colonial gems that it is dotted with. One such gem, not in a desirable condition, is a building in which railway workers reside. It is next to a structure which is now vacant but was also once a government department. Both are works of stonemasonry, and since they have to do with the government, maintenance of the structures seems to be the least of the problems.
The smattering of colonial works of architecture and a haphazard construction of new buildings has created an aesthetic asymmetry in the area. Is that a rectifiable issue?
Architect Arif Hasan says, “There are three viewpoints. One has been adopted in different cities of Europe where they decided to freeze certain historic areas, that is, no change could take place in the buildings. The other view is that for such regions there should be consistent bylaws and rules and regulations. This means new construction is permitted but as per law they should not overshadow the historic reality of the area. Another point of view is that the scale, texture and preservation of sufficient external space must be kept in mind and only then you can bring about any change that you want.”
The architect is spot on. With regard to Civil Lines, any of the three methods could have done it a world of good.
