My earliest memories of Zainab market date back to the late 1980s. My siblings and I, on our way back from St Patrick`s School, used to pass by it amidst traffic smoke and horns blaring from public transport buses.

Even then Karachi`s Zainab Market was a bustling place; it was usually packed with shoppers, both local and tourists from countries like Russia, Saudi Arabia and Britain who would be advised by tour operators and/or guide books that the market was a must visit.

Tourist buses and vans lined the already crowded Abdullah Haroon Road (Victoria Road) near the entrance to the market waiting for their passengers to come back with shopping bags full of Pakistani souvenirs and colourful memories of the culture of this lively city.

During one odd trip to buy winter clothing, I still remember airline crew from Far-Eastern, Arab and European countries exploring the narrow lanes of the market and excitedly chatting with the shopkeepers over a cup of chai while making a deal on a hand-knotted rug or a piece of ethnic jewellery. People visiting Karachi from other parts of the country also made sure that their itinerary included a trip or two to Zainab, as it is generally called.

The market was set up in the mid-`70s in the heart of Karachi. It is Pakistan`s modest answer to the Grand bazaar of Istanbul, the souks of Marrakech and the Chutchuk of Bangkok.

Shops are located on two levels; the ground floor shops sell home décor items, artefacts and clothing; and the first floor shops specialise in leather products.

An early afternoon shopping escapade to Zainab Market means that you just might be lucky enough to get a parking space nearby. The area around the market has gotten quite crowded over the years because of the opening of new markets like Victoria Market and Madina City Mall.

All of the front row shops sell casual cloths like T-shirts, jackets, caps and pants.

These are either export surplus of slightly defective genuine brands manufactured locally for export or very good copies of the real thing -- all for a fraction of the real price. The quality is good and the price even better. However, in order to find something you like, you need to rummage through piles of clothing, but you are bound to find a few lovely bargains, which will make it worth the time and effort.

Authentic Pakistani souvenirs can be found in shops further down into the market through maze-like passageways crammed with vendors hawking exotic wares.

Hand-embroidered ethnic pieces and regional dresses like Sindhi and Baluchi frocks; breathtaking pieces of mirror work done on shawls and dupattas; intricate needlework patterns embellished on mobile phone pouches, wallet, spectacle cases, coin purses, pin cushions and sea shells encrusted purses are all on sale here.

The shop owners are ever ready to excitedly display beautifully embroidered wall hangings, handloom tapestries, skilfully done appliqué bed covers and brilliantly embellished cushion covers in a palette of rich and vibrant colours depicting the creative handiwork of our village folk.

These pieces are handmade by craftsmen in rural areas, most of them women from far-flung villages of Sindh, Baluchistan and the Northern Areas. Some shops sell excellent old embodied Sindhi cloth called the `ajrak` and the traditional patchwork, `ralli` bedcovers.

Further on are stores brimming with a plethora of skilfully crafted wooden doors, frames, boxes, and side tables - all exhibiting an old world charm.

The wood used is usually Sheesham (Rosewood) and Deodar. Some of the decorated pieces are also done in Akhrot (Walnut) wood. Besides wood, there are also specialised shops selling copper and brassware merchandise.
Besides this, machine made lacquer work, carved plates, wooden boxes, onyx vases, marble bowls, miniature paintings depicting the Mughal era, camel skin lamps and metal ashtrays are also sold here.

The market also has shops housing an elaborate variety of shawls, including the treasured pashmina and stunning ethnic and tribal jewellery, including silver trinkets, chunky necklaces and bangles. With no marked prices, vendors have to be asked for what seems to be arbitrary pricing, so one has to be well prepared for some hard bargaining.
The entire first floor of the market has leather shops selling leather coats, jackets, overcoats, hats, belts, shoes, faux fur shawls and faux fur coats etc.

Apart from personal wear range shops even sell leather sofa covers, upholstery, decoration items, bags, brief cases, luggage and even leather bed covers.

A day`s trip to Zainab Market is definitely a culturally empowering experience.

However, it was sad to know that very few foreigners can now be seen shopping here and those who do make their way here are often guarded with armed men, which makes it difficult for the shop owners to make a sale.

Due to this very reason most of the handicraft shops have closed down and the vacated space taken up by shops selling readymade garments whose clientele is local.

Although one must say that Zainab Market even today lives up to its reputation as a shopping destination, one does miss excited foreigners exploring the market, chatting and bargaining with shopkeepers, admiring the delicate needle work, appreciating the variety of neatly lined products and filling their shopping bags with souvenirs but most importantly appreciating the mastery and skill of the craftspeople of Pakistan.