JAKARTA: Indonesian dancer Rianto moves gracefully in front of a crowd of thousands in the capital Jakarta, whipping his orange sash and in full make-up as he performs a centuries-old folk dance frowned upon by conservatives.

The Lengger Lanang dance tradition is rooted in 16th-century fertility and harvest rituals from Central Java province.

It has since evolved into an art form that challenges rigid beliefs around masculinity in a deeply conservative and religious society.

Lengger Lanang is performed by men dressed as Javanese princesses, wearing tight, colourful batik dresses and ornaments woven into their fake hair bun updos.

But the tradition is close to disappearing in the Muslim-majority country, with fewer than 100 performers courageous enough to take part in shows.

“Lengger is still looked down on and negatively stigmatised,” 42-year-old dancer and choreographer Rianto said. “People still see men dancing as going against the norm,” said Rianto, who like many Indonesians has one name.

Backed by lively Javanese beats and melodies, the dancers sway their hips, flick their fingers and throw seductive glances at the audience in a Jakarta theatre.

The performers crack jokes in deep baritone voices, reminding their audience that, while they are wearing dresses, they are male.

“Lengger Lanang is where masculine and feminine meet inside one body and it is aimed to create peace within oneself,” said Rianto, who is married to a Japanese woman.

Lengger was once a highly revered folk art where performers were idolised and respected as performers able to embody both genders.

Published in Dawn, October 18th, 2023