It was 1975 when I first heard of the Karoonjhar Hills. This was years before Rooplo Kolhi, a Sindhi rebel, and Karoonjhar became synonymous for Sindhi nationalists in the ‘80s. But despite this localised notoriety, the scenic beauty of Karoonjhar Hills remained hidden from the tourists till the 2000s, when a network of metalled roads was laid connecting it to the outside world.

The town of Nagarparkar is a gateway to Karoonjhar Hills and is accessible from the National Highway, although the Karachi-Hyderabad-Mirpurkhas-Mithi route is more popular.

Taking this latter route, I reached Mithi and noticed a number of cattle herds moving in different directions. I was told that the movement of herds depends on the occurrence, frequency and intensity of monsoon rains. Last year the Islamkot area received sufficient rain, while this year it rained in pockets of Nagarparkar, so the herdsmen moved their cattle to greener areas.

On the way I stopped at Bhalwa village, the abode of Marvi, a popular heroine of Shah Latif’s poetry. According to a legend, she was kidnapped from a well here by King Umer. Marvi later became a patriotic symbol because she refused favours by King Umer who held her captive. She returned to Thar when he was forced to free her because of her will and tenacity.

On the same path, one comes to Gori Jo Temple, which boasts an open veranda and carved arches on three sides. Some local historians claim it was a temple, while others argue that it was a residential learning facility for followers of Jainism.

Before crossing the Veerawah check post, one passes a landscape of marshland and natural ponds; the rain-washed bushes, lush greenery and overcast cloudy skies present postcard imagery. The first rays of the morning sun fell on the reddish stone walls of the ancient Bodesar mosque at the foot of Karoonjhar hills — an innovative combination of Jain and Islamic architecture.

Nagarparkar’s temples, ancient sites, scenic landscape and age-old myths remain a mystery for pilgrims, archaeologists, tourists, folklorists and common travellers.

But my destination was Sardharro, a sacred place for Hindus who attribute it to Rishi Parashara — a wandering teacher who observed tapasaya for a long time there.

Decades ago pilgrims would travel to Sardharro on foot. There are two paths — one along the Sardharro river bed; the other through the bed of a small natural waterway.

Sardharro has a music of its own with the cries of peacocks, the song of doves, the rustle of leaves and the quiet murmur of rain fed waterways joining in a symphony in the backdrop of pink granite and lush green bushes bathed in the dew of dawn.

According to a tea-stall owner, Karoonjhar is a “giving mountain”. “Each day, it gives “a little over a kilogram of gold” as well as precious stones. There are medicinal plants and gorges loaded with bee hives”. It was still early in the morning, there weren’t many people at his stall so he was happy to talk. “Each cave in the hill has welcomed Rishis, Munis and Gurus; every stone has witnessed the tapasaya of yogis; and its springs have washed the tired feet of pilgrims of all faiths”.

According to Ali Nawaz Nizamani, a rural sociologist, the sudden influx of visitors in the hills may have a negative impact on the environment of Karoonjhar hills which have been declared a National Park. But Dr Ashok Kumar, an official of Thardeep Rural Development Programme believes that Thar is now well connected via roads, so promoting eco-tourism in the village may counter the negative impact”.

The next evening I left Nagarparkar; tired and sleepy. My driver may have thought I was asleep and but I was listening to Mai Bhagi on CD, — Khari neem kay neechei, main tu haikly … Thousands of visitors come to Thar following monsoon rains but how many of them have actually internalised the spirit of this song? Conservation of Nagarparkar on a war-footing will save it from irreversible degradation and from sufferring the same fate the Kalash valley has suffered.

The writer is a development practitioner, he can be contacted at: junejozi@gmail.com