The eateries of Lahore are a ‘many splendid delight’ for its inhabitants and more so for visitors. But of all the delights of Lahore, few can match the taste and freshness of a classy ‘taka tak’.
The very name ‘taka tak’ comes from the sound made on the cooking ‘tava’ (plate) by the chef during the cooking process. What you get is what you order. Nothing could be simpler. If ever there was a traditional instant meal, this is one. You can use ‘mutton chops’, or chicken, or fish, or ‘magaz’ (brain), or even mince of any sort. But of all the different combinations available, nothing compares with a traditional ‘gurda-kapoora’. With this can be mixed liver, or even ‘magaz’. Cooked and fried in pure butter with a lot of greens and chillies, this is a gourmet’s delight.
Two weeks ago I set out with my begum to try them at Lakshmi Chowk at the famous Kaka’s Taka Tak. Sadly the Orange Train fiasco has polluted the entire environment and divided the famous chowk. Will Lahore ever be the same again? I have my doubts. Across the crossing along Abbott Road is the famous Nishat Taka Tak, and then there are a number of eateries like Butt and Shahi. But to Kaka Taka Tak we went.
We ordered two dishes. One a classic ‘gurda-kapoora’ and then the usual ‘magaz’. For the first I told the chef to make sure the main ingredients are cleaned and soaked for ten minutes in clean water.
Then to boil them first, but not for too long. Then to fry them in a light ‘masalla’, which should be low on red chillies and high in ginger and garlic and greens.
The final fry should be very hot and quick so that the butter does not burn brown. For ‘magaz’ it was the usual instruction not to convert it to mince form, with the same spice combination.
It must be said in all fairness the chef did a superb job. With piping hot ‘naans’ we enjoyed the meal. The ambience is what we expect of a Lakshmi Chowk eatery, only now it is mixed with dust. So they have managed a reasonable window protection. Let me mark this ‘eating out’ experience on the Michelin Scale of one to nine.
For food taste a solid seven, for food quality another seven, for cleanliness five, for ambience four (not entirely their fault), for service six, for quality of crockery and cutlery five (they can improve if they want to), for prices it gets six (reasonable prices) and for variety available five is fine, but then they are specialists. This averages out to 5.6 out of nine. If you are interested only in food taste and quality, then it is seven out of nine. Excellent. But as a whole experience, then it is 5.6, which is not bad. Recommended.
RIZWAN’S PASTA: Lahore has a habit of inventing amazing dishes. In Gulberg’s Main Market is a well-known Rizwan Burger Shop. This gent the other day came up with a new invention.
He minced a chicken breast tikka piece, added the ingredients used in his burgers and added it to freshly cooked pasta. Piping hot and spicy, it was delightful. Forget Firenze.
Not a bad route to Lahori Italian food. Mind you if you roam the streets of any Toscana town, this is how they invent new pasta and spaghetti dishes and give them fashionable Italian names. They should try the Pasta a la Rizwania.
Published in Dawn, April 17th, 2016