The 3rd Style 360 Pantene Bridal Couture Week held in Lahore last week witnessed a flurry of fashion activity in a city that has been reeling from the Dengue outbreak and political game-playing. However, the zinda dilan-i-Lahore have never been known to fall back in challenging times and sure enough they came out in large numbers to attend the two-day fashion event that consistently marks the social calendar every year. This time BCW came home to roost after laying claim to Karachi during its second outing.

The venue had pristine white flowers in exotic arrangements complimented by huge glass chandeliers which exuded an aura of grace and sophistication. Once the ramp shows started there was no holding back and punctuating them were a multitude of dance performances. Newcomer Mariam emerged as the proverbial star due to her spectacular and energetic performance, and ready to fill the void left by Mathira who has moved on to greener but dull pastures of a private satellite TV network.

With age, vigour and vitality on her side, here’s predicting that Mariam will go a long way. And according to an inside source, she had approached the Style 360 team in Dubai some time back and finally landed the opportunity to perform the number choreographed by Shaukat Hussain Samrat. Model Fia’s classical kathak number was somewhat pale in comparison, even though it was well-rehearsed and she displayed some excellent moves honed to perfection.

Yet another performer who won much acclaim was Hamada who performed an Egyptian Sufi-inspired dance called Tamoora. He played with what initially seemed like the duff in a brilliant display of acrobatic skills, multiplying it from two to as many as six while swirling in dervaish-like fashion to the beat of enchanting spiritual music. Ultimately, he started peeling off layers of clothing, including the turban, and in a spectacularly spellbinding moment gave another twist to his performance with a short whistle wherein his whole costume lit up with multi-coloured LED lights. From there on, he showed different formations, all the while pirouetting non-stop to the beat of sweet-sounding Arabic instrumental music.

Of course, these highly-charged dance performances were interspersed in between the ramp shows that were the main focus of the event, and served to lend respite to the models, the make-up artiste and her team and designers gearing up for the next line of fashion presentations.

Designer Mona Imran opened Day One of BCW with the jewellery for her segment provided by Nadia Chottani. Pleats, ruffles, lace and broaches defined the outfits with solid pastel colours and these were the strongest line in her collection. There was also a one-off pink chunri outfit with a rangoli duppatta that spoke of the versatility of the designer when it comes to diversity in design.

Trend: a lehenga with a longish train. Drama: four brawny men carried model Ayyan in a doli on the ramp.

Next, Kosain Kazmi’s collection inspired by the Mughal era sustained vibrant colours. He revived chatta-patti in paneling and edging while Pakeeza’s Mausam Hai Ashiqana played softly in the background.

Cuts, colours, drama in draping and the luxurious feel of soft fabric in traditional blend best describe Hijab by Saba and Misbah. Their two-tone pleated outfit and the reintroduction of shocking pink were welcomed with open arms by fashionistas. The drama in this segment came in the form of a multi-pleated black sheer top worn over beige-golden jamawar.

The drama in BNS Couture by Bina Sultan was in the mirror work and the very experimental gold and beige bridal worn by model Mehreen Syed with an improvised one-shoulder neckline work as a separate piece with a full net sleeve. The segment had jewellery by Islamabad-based Reem Abbasi titled Keepsakes that was launched in 2010 and comprises rough-cut diamonds, pearls and Swarovski crystals.

The evening shows commenced shortly after with Mehdi opening the segment with jewellery by Saira Omer. Show opener cricket legend Waseem Akram walked in wearing an ankle-length, front-open beige and silver sherwani with a touch of black followed by an entire menswear line of kurtas.

Drama: Iman Ali made an appearance on the runway in a classic beige-on-beige embroidered fusion masterpiece offset by sparse bling to the tune of Supreme Ishq and while clutching a bouquet of blood-red roses.

Experimental and very edgy, Fahad Hussayn’s black bridals had jewellery by Unique Jewellers and just a hint of hues. The colours of Rajasthan followed in a vibrant collection with men’s kurtas in saffron orange and model Sunita Marshal in an outfit with matt gold oversize crochet topped off by pearl adornments. Qurat-ul-Ain Baloch made a surprise appearance in his segment with a live performance of Aankhiyaan Nu Rehen De.

The label Gulzeb made a debut at Dubai Fashion Week 2011 and showed a collection in bright colours with jewellery by Saira Omer. The singular outfit that stood out in the collection was a spaghetti-strap number with a traditional achkan-cut long shirt worn by model Neha. The segment gave many in the audience the impression that the designer was simply following trends rather than creating them. The showing also concluded the presentations on Day One with showstopper Adnan Siddiqui.

DAY TWO

Karachi-based bridal corturier Shaiyanne Malik of the label Samanzar dedicated her collection to the women of Dera Jatta who embellished her take on bridal trousseau with traditional patterns in a line that was both vibrant and different from what the designer usually puts on the ramp.

Drama: an ivory, hand-woven raw finish fabric with turquoise layering and contrast resham embroidery worn with a trademark choli blouse.

Saira Rizwan’s jhoomar-inspired highly embellished collection titled Jehanara had designs inspired from the architecture of the Taj Mahal and worn with costume trinkets by Sadiqa Jewellers.

Drama: a short, cropped jacket with a bejeweled motif on the lower back and a multi-pleated net long kameeze with Mughal miniature art motifs dotting the hemline shown to a live performance by Omer Iftikhar. The showstopper for the segment was Resham in a classic red and beige outfit.

Sadaf Arshad has a decade in fashion design with special focus on cuts and detailing to create chic, modern and glamourous women’s wear. Her collection had elaborate necklines, and notable among the rest was a sea-green number that defined her design philosophy immaculately. Shazia Kiyani’s red and pink bridals with heavy jewellery by Hira Zeeshan saw a revival of the old school with kiran edging.

The first evening presentation on Day Two showcased the designs of Delhi-based Indian designers Raul and Shibani Rastogi, and Gautam Rakha of the label Rabani & Rakha. With intricate and exquisite stone work, it opened with an all-black collection highlighted with jewel tones on tulle and chiffon and jewel work while being very structural and body-hugging.

Drama: very filmi, it was edgy to the point of film star glamour, no doubt what Kareena Kapoor or Katrina Kaif would wear in a typical Bollywood item number. Others in this segment included gowns in toxic purple, reddish-brown, emerald green and candy pink with a matte gold sari with jewellery by Saira Omer and Hadiqa Kiyani as the showstopper.

Ali Xeeshan’s Crimson collection was easily the best of all those shown at the 3rd Style360 Pantene Bridal Couture Week ramp with bold mukesh work on fabrics and multi-layering and voluminous, flared shararas. Jewellery was by Saira Omer.

Trend: short, fitted kameezes worn over shalwars was highly nostalgic of the ’80s and appropriately stylised hair.

Drama: a circus troupe complete with ghuggu ghoras.

Rich eastern culture and voluminous pants sans any embellishments worn with embellished, loose-fitting tops opened the final showing by La Chantal by Saba to an elaborate setting. This was followed by lemon yellow and black bridals and a grand finale with supermodel Nadia Husain in a yellow and reddish-brown bridal with heavy ruffles, Reema Khan in a parrot-green outfit with antique gold work and Shaan in a low-cut neck black sherwani.

According to some fashion critics there was more drama on the ramp than in the clothes.

Finally, Sultana Siddiqui flanked on either side by Duraid Siddiqui, Vaneeza Ahmad and Shanaz Ramzi delivered a note of thanks and in an unexpected grand finale, all the designers who showed on both days walked the ramp for one last time with their respective showstoppers as sparklers went off on either sides of the ramp, culminating the shows. Very ethereal and befitting an event that is to go on to bigger, better venues in March 2012, according to hushed rumours.

Credits: Flowers by Naila Gurmani (The Florist) Hair & make-up: Saba Ansari (Sabs) Ramp director: HSY Event management: J&S Events Photography: Anahita Hashmani