Where the Chinese guy went – Part IV

Published June 28, 2011
I arrived at Taxila, which is about two hours driving distance from Rawalpindi.
I arrived at Taxila, which is about two hours driving distance from Rawalpindi.
Being one of the most significant archaeological sites in Pakistan, Buddhist monuments were visible at the Taxila valley which in the past was a religious heartland for pilgrims from all over the world.
Being one of the most significant archaeological sites in Pakistan, Buddhist monuments were visible at the Taxila valley which in the past was a religious heartland for pilgrims from all over the world.
“Do you know Tang-seng? He was one of the greatest monks in China who visited Taxila thousands of years ago,” the archaeological site manager explained to me. “Pilgrims from central Asia and Thailand came to Taxila regularly to study Buddhism when this country was still safe for all visitors,” he said.Tang-seng, or we called it Xuanzang in Mandarin, was a famous Buddhist monk and a translator between Chinese and Indian pilgrims in the early Tang dynasty.
“Do you know Tang-seng? He was one of the greatest monks in China who visited Taxila thousands of years ago,” the archaeological site manager explained to me. “Pilgrims from central Asia and Thailand came to Taxila regularly to study Buddhism when this country was still safe for all visitors,” he said.Tang-seng, or we called it Xuanzang in Mandarin, was a famous Buddhist monk and a translator between Chinese and Indian pilgrims in the early Tang dynasty.
In mid 5th century AD, Taxila was badly shaken by the arrival of the Huns into the area. Being a Taxila-born Pakistani, the hotel manager told me that the majority of the locals appreciate this region’s rich culture – even though they are Muslims, they helped reconstruct the Buddhist sites.
In mid 5th century AD, Taxila was badly shaken by the arrival of the Huns into the area. Being a Taxila-born Pakistani, the hotel manager told me that the majority of the locals appreciate this region’s rich culture – even though they are Muslims, they helped reconstruct the Buddhist sites.
‘Love Pakistan.’Many people said to me that it was a miracle that I was still living safe and sound despite the many things happening nowadays.
‘Love Pakistan.’Many people said to me that it was a miracle that I was still living safe and sound despite the many things happening nowadays.
On my way to Khewra, the Salt Range – most of the Pakistanis whom I met were as friendly as them.
On my way to Khewra, the Salt Range – most of the Pakistanis whom I met were as friendly as them.
The Salt Range, situated in the Central Punjab, was named so due to the naturally occurring salt.
The Salt Range, situated in the Central Punjab, was named so due to the naturally occurring salt.
Visiting a remote village located adjacent to Khewra, where the locals still live in their very old, traditional way – I couldn’t find any cellular phone-cards at the shops.
Visiting a remote village located adjacent to Khewra, where the locals still live in their very old, traditional way – I couldn’t find any cellular phone-cards at the shops.
The rocks in colours of grey and brown make it a very astonishing place. I felt like just staring and pondering upon the meaning of life.
The rocks in colours of grey and brown make it a very astonishing place. I felt like just staring and pondering upon the meaning of life.
The hills at the salt range fall steeply into the Punjab plain – and I thought you only saw such dramatic geographic structure on television.
The hills at the salt range fall steeply into the Punjab plain – and I thought you only saw such dramatic geographic structure on television.
Let’s take a local bus!
Let’s take a local bus!
Walking on the streets after visiting the Khewra Salt Mines Museum, one of the world’s largest salt mines. People in Khewra claimed that the salt was mined before the presence of the Mughals.
Walking on the streets after visiting the Khewra Salt Mines Museum, one of the world’s largest salt mines. People in Khewra claimed that the salt was mined before the presence of the Mughals.
That evening I realized that I was the only guest at the only hotel in the valley. Before that, I spent more than an hour to trying to make a rickshaw driver understand that he should take me to a hotel – what a communication barrier.
That evening I realized that I was the only guest at the only hotel in the valley. Before that, I spent more than an hour to trying to make a rickshaw driver understand that he should take me to a hotel – what a communication barrier.
A priest said to me, “Although we are the minority in the town, the majority Muslims treat us very well. They donated money for restoration of the church. After all, we are all the same – we are human beings, peace-lovers, and Pakistanis.”
A priest said to me, “Although we are the minority in the town, the majority Muslims treat us very well. They donated money for restoration of the church. After all, we are all the same – we are human beings, peace-lovers, and Pakistanis.”
The Rohtas Fort was included in Unesco’s World Heritage List in 1997.Many people claimed that the Rohtas Fort was well worth a visit, but none of them had an idea of the way to the fort.I left Khewra in the morning and reached Jhelum. However, I was told that Rohtas is not located at Jhelum – Dina was the closer town to Rohtas. I did not have a choice except transiting from Jhelum to Dina. Finally and luckily, I reached the Rohtas Fort!
The Rohtas Fort was included in Unesco’s World Heritage List in 1997.Many people claimed that the Rohtas Fort was well worth a visit, but none of them had an idea of the way to the fort.I left Khewra in the morning and reached Jhelum. However, I was told that Rohtas is not located at Jhelum – Dina was the closer town to Rohtas. I did not have a choice except transiting from Jhelum to Dina. Finally and luckily, I reached the Rohtas Fort!
Walking along the five kilometre fort, it is possible to reach a tower where a strange block and a hole are seen. The rickshaw driver said that in the past it was a place for executions where the victim was thrown down from the hole.
Walking along the five kilometre fort, it is possible to reach a tower where a strange block and a hole are seen. The rickshaw driver said that in the past it was a place for executions where the victim was thrown down from the hole.

I asked the old, bearded taxi driver in Islamabad, “I want to go to Taxila so take me to the bus station in Rawalpindi. Kitnay?” (How much?)

“You’re a Chinese, as you like…” replied the driver (Pakistanis look up to the Chinese very much). Twenty minutes later, I arrived at the local bus station and took a mini coach to Taxila – the very local mode of transport with overloaded passengers which made me feel as if I was sitting in a sardine can.

I was hiding in the ancient towns of Punjab during the Osama Bin Laden episode, studying the cultural sites in Pakistan and living like a Pakistani. I traveled by public transport, visited remote villages, ate simple local cuisine daily, and spent most of my days with Punjabis who couldn’t speak English.

I was alive in Pakistan because most Pakistanis are lovers of peace. – Text and photos by Jia Wei

Jia Wei was an intern at Dawn.com

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