LAWAT, June 4: Ambassadors and deputy heads of missions of 10 European Union member states are on a three-day visit to the Neelum Valley in the northeast of Muzaffarabad.

Just six months ago, such visits would have been difficult if not impossible to arrange because the village, like most parts of the valley, lies inside the small arms' range of the Indian troops on the other side of the Line of Control, the Neelum River.

But the situation has pleasantly changed now, thanks to the ceasefire that was struck and implemented by both the armies along the LoC in November 2003. "I am happy to visit this important place. It's a wonderful territory," Pierre Charasse, French ambassador to Pakistan, told Dawn as his wife, Guadaloupe Charasse, looked on.

The EU diplomats are on a visit to the cedar forested valley from Monday to Wednesday on the invitation of Islamic Relief, a UK-based charity organization. The delegation is led by Mr Ilkka Uusitalo, European Union Ambassador, and included ambassadors from Portugal, Sweden, Greece, Italy, Czech Republic and Germany and deputy heads of mission from Finland and Poland.

Five of them are accompanied by their spouses as well. Islamic Relief, according to its official Adnan Cheema, is executing 'Kashmir Water and Sanitation Programme' in Neelum valley at a cost of around 800,000 euros, 75 per cent of which is being provided by the EU.

"I can (now) better understand how complex would have been the situation here," Mr Charasse said, referring to the pre- cease-fire days when casualties in Indian shelling were almost a daily occurrence. "And I can also understand the importance of cease-fire - it heralds peace," he added. On the second day of their arrival, the envoys visited the Community Health Centre, established by the UK-based organization.

The centre provides free healthcare facilities to the local people, and has trained 22 female and 20 male community health workers over the past two years in collaboration with the AJK health department.

The visitors were later taken to a community protection centre near tehsil headquarter Athmuqam. Just close to that centre was the village's primary school where the shining faces of young boys and girls exhibited the benefits of cease-fire.

"Now we spend our days and nights in complete satisfaction," Muhammad Afzal, father of one student, told Dawn as the envoys posed for pictures with the kids. "Two years ago, my five-year-old niece was killed in shelling here," he said pointing to the courtyard of a house still bearing bullet marks.

In a nearby compound, 30 girls were learning sewing, embroidery and knitting from their teachers. The envoys were equally happy over the contentment of the villagers. "It's good to see how life is returning to normal in this area which has suffered a lot due to hostilities," Mr Uusitalo remarked.

"People are working in their fields without fear of being hit. It is a very good beginning," he said. The ambassador was also happier because the cease-fire could help a better execution of the EU-funded programme.

"I can imagine the problems in execution of any development programme during hostilities. But I hope such organizations would be able to deliver more in the changed situation," he said.