Two Pakistanis among 13 climbers scale world’s 11th highest peak Gasherbrum-I

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GILGIT: Thirteen climbers from multiple countries, including two Pakistanis, scaled Gasherbrum-I (8,080 m) — the eleventh-highest peak in the world — on Sunday.

Summit Karakoram’s Sakhawat Hussain said despite significant challenges currently faced by mountaineers, including the dry season, reduced manpower and unpredictable weather conditions, four members of a foreign expedition team comprising Pavlo Sydorenko from Ukraine, Magdalena Arcimowicz from Poland, Migma Dorchi Sherpa, and Pem Lakpa Sherpa from Nepal successfully summitted Gasherbrum-I on Sunday.

Mr Hussain said the team reached the summit of Gasherbrum-I at 11:08am (PST).

He added that this accomplishment reflects their hard work and dedication in the face of extreme challenges.

“We wish the entire team a safe and successful descent,” he said.

Three members of Seven Summit Treks, including Mr Marco Confortola from Italy, Lakpa Sherpa and Pasang Ngima Sherpa from Nepal, also summited Gasherbrum-I on Sunday around 11:50am.

Marco made the successful ascent without the use of supplemental oxygen. He is one of the senior mountain guides, having received the UIAGM/IFMGA International Alpine Guide certification in 1993.

Meanwhile, on Sunday at 10:44am PST, a three-member Gasherbrum-I expedition team led by Imagine Nepal also successfully summited the peak.

The team included Dr Sashko Kedev from Macedonia, Mr Wang Zhong from China and Nepali climbers Dawa Gyalje Sherpa and Ngima Nuru Sherpa. Dr Kedev’s summit of Gasherbrum-I marks the completion of all 14 eight-thousanders.

Mr Wang Zhong has now completed 10 of the 14 peaks. Dawa Gyalje Sherpa, who completed all 14 in 2024, summited Gasherbrum-I again, while Ngima Nuru Sherpa now stands at 11 out of 14.

Likewise, Abid Baig from Hunza summited Gasherbrum-I without Sherpa support and supplementary oxygen on Sunday.

Abid Baig has already climbed both Nanga Parbat and Broad Peak. He also holds the national speed cycling record for the route from Balochistan to the China border, completing it in 11 days.

Shah Doulat from Shimshal, Hunza, also successfully reached the summit of Gasherbrum-I on Sunday at 11am.

Shah Doulat has already summited K2, Nanga Parbat and Gasherbrum-II. He plans to summit Broad Peak next.

A large number of foreign climbers are currently at the base camps of K2, Broad Peak, Gasherbrum-I and Gasherbrum-II to attempt summits of the peaks.

However, snow avalanches, rockfall and unusual weather conditions at the eight-thousanders pose threats to climbers attempting the summits.

Sakhawat Hussain said the weather forecast for K2 and Broad Peak does not look promising in the coming days.

“As for K2, the camps are still unable to be established at Camp III, leaving the success of summiting K2, along with other peaks like GII and Broad Peak, this year in doubt. As we move forward, the team continues to monitor the situation closely, adapting to weather conditions and ensuring the safety of all members. We remain hopeful for further successes despite the tough circumstances,” he said.

Summit pushes at K2, Broad Peak, Gasherbrum-I and Gasherbrum-II are expected this week.

Published in Dawn, July 21st, 2025

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