Naila Kiani eyes 12th eight-thousander

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ISLAMABAD: Renowned mountaineer Naila Kiani, only Pakistani woman climber to have summited 11 of the world’s 14 eight-thousander peaks, on Wednesday began her summit push to ascend Kanchenjunga (8,586 metres), the world’s third-highest mountain located in Nepal.

She arrived at Kanchenjunga Base Camp on May 5, completed her acclimatisation rotation, and had been waiting for a suitable weather window. According to a statement from her team, Ms Kiani left Camp 2 on Wednesday and was headed toward Camp 3, targeting to reach the summit by Thursday or Friday, depending on conditions.

“Climbing Kanchenjunga has been an incredibly difficult expedition and a harsh reminder of how hard it is to climb mountains over 8,000m,” Ms Kiani said in a message to her team before resuming her ascent. “I’m now at Camp 2 and need every ounce of physical strength and mental determination to make it through. I’m praying … it’s been very tough so far.”

Ms Kiani is part of the Imagine Nepal expedition. Her team said weather at the peak remains uncertain.

Seeks to become first Pakistani woman to summit all 14 highest peaks

If conditions allow, her final summit push was to start on Wednesday or Thursday from Camp 3.

“This expedition marks a significant step in her ambitious quest to climb all 14 of the world’s 8,000-metre peaks,” the statement read. Only 65 climbers globally, including just 14 women have conquered all 14 eight-thousanders peaks

Her previous summits incl­ude Everest, K2, Broad Peak, Nanga Parbat, Gasherbrum I and II, Annapurna, Lhotse, Manaslu, Makalu and Cho Oyu. The ascent of Kanchen­junga would bring her closer to completing the elite 14-peak challenge.

“Each mountain presents its own set of challenges, but the drive to represent Pakistan on these global heights keeps me going,” Ms Kiani said.

“I’m very grateful that the Bard Foundation has made this attempt possible and for their support throughout my mountaineering journey.”

“Kanchenjunga is known for its treacherous terrains and unpredictable weather,” she added.

“But with determination and the support of my family, team and followers, I’m hopeful for a successful summit.”

Ms Kiani was awarded the Sitara-i-Imtiaz last year for her mountaineering achievements.

She is also a Dubai-based banker, amateur boxer and mother of two.

She gained initial fame in 2018 after wedding photos at K2 Base Camp went viral.

In October 2023, Ms Kiani and fellow climber Sirbaz Khan survived an avalanche on Tibet’s Shishapangma peak, while four other climbers were killed or went missing.

Published in Dawn, May 22nd, 2025

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