KABUL: As night settles over Afghani­stan’s capital, only a few small lights and neon signs pierce the darkness and thick blanket of winter pollution. But on some street corners, glittering colossal wedding halls loom out of the gloom, a rare display of opulence in the Afghan capital.

The city of more than six million people is often plunged into shadow due to ubiquitous power outages, which only the wealthiest can remedy with expensive generators or solar panels. Apart from a few vendors, the streets are deserted, a stark contrast with the chaotic hustle of the daytime.

People huddle at home to shelter from the cold and for lack of nighttime activities. Since the Taliban took power in 2021 and imposed their strict version of Islamic law, a veil of sadness has enveloped the capital.

There is no music spilling out from restaurants because it is forbidden, women are banned from parks, and walls decorated with colourful pro-peace graffiti have been splashed with calls to holy war.

The only bright lights emanate from the wedding halls that dot the city centre and escape some of the Taliban’s scrutiny, as marriage is prized in Afghan culture. The high-ceilinged halls are segregated by gender, with music only tolerated on the women’s side.

“In Afghanistan, the marriage ceremony is the most important event for girls and boys. It’s a once-in-a-lifetime event — we don’t have much divorce,” said Mohammad Wassil Qaumi, director of the Imperial Continental, a palatial white-and-gold hall that shines with a glitz reminiscent of a Las Vegas casino. “It’s the start of a new life so the light should be everywhere, that’s why the city is bright, it should have a little bit of luxury!” he said.

Published in Dawn, February 11th, 2025