GUJAR KHAN: Perched at an elevation of 975 meters (3,200 feet) atop the rugged Salt Range in Jhelum district, the ancient Tilla Jogian complex—once a beacon of spiritual enlightenment and harmony—now stands as a haunting reminder of neglect. Located approximately 47 kilometres west of Jhelum city and 150 kilometres southwest of Islamabad, this historic site, home to crumbling Hindu temples and centuries-old ascetic traditions, has weathered the tides of time but risks being lost forever without urgent intervention.

Tilla Jogian, or the “Hill of Ascetics,” traces its origins to over 2,000 years ago. Founded by Guru Gorakhnath, the revered Hindu yogi and pioneer of the Nath tradition, the site served as a sanctuary for jogis (ascetics) who retreated to its serene heights to meditate and seek divine wisdom. These ascetics, committed to a life of austerity, renounced material possessions and worldly desires, embodying a philosophy of spiritual detachment. The complex once boasted 12 intricately carved temples, a monastery, and meditation cells, attracting pilgrims and scholars from across the subcontinent.

The temples, dedicated to Hindu deities, were architectural masterpieces adorned with detailed carvings and symbolic motifs. During the annual Baisakhi festival, thousands of devotees trekked up the steep terrain to participate in rituals, underscoring the site’s spiritual significance. Tilla Jogian also became a melting pot of Hindu and Sufi traditions, with ascetics engaging in dialogues with Muslim mystics, fostering a legacy of interfaith harmony. During the colonial era, Tilla Jogian also served as a camp office for the Jhelum deputy commissioner, who used to hold official meetings under the shady trees of banyan during summers.

Tilla Jogian’s mystique extends into Punjabi folklore through the tragic romance Heer Ranjha, penned by Sufi poet Waris Shah in the 18th century. The protagonist Ranjha, heartbroken after separation from his beloved Heer, sought solace at Tilla Jogian. Here, Bal Nath Jogi, a revered ascetic, pierced Ranjha’s ears—a ritual marking his initiation into the Jogi order—and granted him Jog (asceticism) to aid his quest to reunite with Heer. This episode immortalised the site as a sanctuary for lovers and spiritual seekers, symbolising love, sacrifice, and transcendence.

The site’s spiritual aura transcended religious boundaries. In the early 1500s, Guru Nanak, founder of Sikhism, meditated here for 40 days, cementing Tilla Jogian’s significance in Sikh history. Centuries later, Maharaja Ranjit Singh, the Sikh ruler of Punjab, rebuilt temples destroyed by Afghan invader Ahmed Shah Abdali during 18th-century raids and also constructed a stone-lined pond in the memory of Guru Nanak for jogis, besides a monument where the founder of Sikhism is said to have mediated.

In 2021, the then government declared Tilla Jogian a National Park to preserve its ecological and historical value and promote eco-tourism. While the designation sparked hope, progress remains lacklustre. The temples languish in decay, and the landscape lacks basic visitor facilities.

A jeep track connecting Tilla Jogian to the Unesco World Heritage Site Rohtas Fort (24km away) was constructed for tourists to reach the top of Tilla Jogian in SUVs and motorbikes, while another trekking trail originates from Bheat village, situated at the foothills of Tilla Jogian.

Today, the temples are shadows of their former glory. Collapsed walls, eroded carvings, invasive vegetation, graffiti, and litter mar the structures.

Sarmad Ehsan Sadiq, a student of history and culture, during his visit to the site with his friends expressed a sense of shock over the glaring neglect on the part of archaeology and cultural heritage authorities. While talking to Dawn, Mr Sarmad said that it was unbelievable that the guardians of the archaeology remained ignorant in the protection and preservation of these relics of the theology of the BC era. “Tilla Jogian is more than ruins—it is a testament to Pakistan’s diverse spiritual roots and a bridge between civilisations. Its preservation is not just about safeguarding stones but reclaiming a narrative of coexistence and resilience,” the dejected visitor said.

While talking to Dawn, Mohammad Saqlain, a resident of Bheat village, said that scores of Hindu and Sikh pilgrims from India and other countries still visit Tilla Jogian annually as the site has immense significance for them. The 81-year-old man said that he still remembers a fair that was held on the hilltop before the partition, adding that the jogis abandoned the area after the partition of 1947.

During the recent visit, large-scale deforestation in the surrounding hills was noticed while extraction of coal from the quarries was also alarming.

When the Sub-divisional Officer (SDO) of the Archeology Department in Jhelum, Mohammad Irfan, was contacted for his comments on the condition of the historic site, he confirmed that a scheme had been forwarded to the Planning and Development Department in Punjab for its uplift and was awaiting approval.

Published in Dawn, February 10th, 2025