MY recent journey from Jeddah to Makkah revealed a surreal landscape of barren land and rocky mountains. Approaching Makkah, the anticipation grew, and upon arrival, the juxtaposition of modern construction and ancient settlements caught my attention. The towering structures dominated the cityscape, overshadowing the historical aspects that intrigued me.

Standing at the drop-off point, my eyes were drawn to the Clock Tower and other massive structures, projecting dominance and opulence. The panorama of affluent buildings seemed detached from the reality of the old city. The sheer scale, the height of the gold crescent moon and competing architectural marvels was a spectacle. The display of wealth is surely colossal.

Finally, I entered the mataf, which is the area for circumambulation around the Kaaba. The holy structure was not as big as I had imagined. But, as I soon realised, the whole ambience is simply dwarfed by the opulence and grandiosity outside. I had to make a deliberate effort to find a spot in mataf from where the Clock Tower could not distract my view of the Kaaba.

The significance of the holy land for the last over 1,400 years has such an intense effect on Muslims that they get overwhelmed the moment they set foot there. I recalled that when we had landed at the airport in Jeddah, there was a very old man who had taken off his shoes out of respect for the land. How he must have waited for that day, saved for that day, and probably spent his world to be there. The show of in-your-face affluence to such a soul is not necessarily a good idea.

Maybe I expected the place to smell of piety, and to reflect modesty. I was probably looking for the basic elements of Islam, but had to put up with the distractions of the material world.

S. Sundas
Rawalpindi

Published in Dawn, January 28th, 2024