SITUATED in Karachi’s Soldier Bazaar neighbourhood, the Shri Panchmukhi Hanuman Mandir is believed to be 1,500 years old — one of the oldest temples in Pakistan, holding special religious significance for the Hindu community, as well as for all history and archaeology enthusiasts in the country and beyond. In its recent history, the temple has stood tall against land grabbers, battled encroachments and endured extreme weather conditions. It underwent a partial facelift a few years ago, funded by the donations of the Hindu community and other members of the public, after its roof began caving in. Now, recent construction at the site has unearthed several artefacts, including statues of idols, which might help shed new light in determining the temple’s provenance. One can only hope that the federal and provincial governments understand the significance of such relics and will make efforts to preserve them, or eventually shift them to museums, with the help of experts. The present government has frequently spoken about its desire to facilitate religious tourism in the country, even amidst worsening ties with our neighbouring country. The restoration and preservation of ancient temples — particularly this mandir, which hosts an eight-foot-tall statue of Hanuman that according to lore sprang from the ground some time after Ram passed through the land during his exile — would certainly help towards those efforts.

Unfortunately, Pakistan’s history — and particularly its pre-Islamic history — is often neglected due to the absence of state interest in preserving history and making it more accessible to the public, and perhaps also in part due to a lack of intellectual curiosity on the part of the public. Perhaps the most glaring example of this is how one of the world’s oldest settlements, Mehrgarh in Balochistan, a precursor to the Indus Valley and Harappa civilisations, is a virtual no-go zone for tourists, with little work being done on it. Most museums in the country are in a state of neglect, largely empty, with only the ghosts of the past for company.

Published in Dawn, September 4th, 2019