ISLAMABAD: The Alpine Club of Pakistan (ACP) on Friday withdrew its statement that veteran climber Mohammad Ali Sadpara summited Nanga Parbat on Thursday.
ACP Secretary Karrar Haidri explained that while Mr Sadpara was among “the dozen or so climbers who made the final push towards the top” he was forced to give up his attempt after he developed frostbite on his toe.
Mr Haidri said news from the first summit of the summer was trickling in.
“Our claim that he summited the 8,126-metre Killer Peak for the fifth time and set a record was due to lack of communication,” he said.
The other successful climbers have nonetheless retired to base camp slowly. The ACP said Sergi Mingote and Moesses Fiamoncini summited Nanga Parbat without supplemental oxygen.
Friday saw more summits, including the first of the season on Broad Peak, the ACP said. Max Berger summited the 8,051-metre peak without bottled oxygen.
Two veteran Japanese climbers summited Rakaposhi (7,788 metres) on Wednesday from the north side for the first time in climbing history.
“The two climbers established a new route and summited alpine style, light and fast,” said Adventure Tourist Pakistan’s Nek Naam, who is managing the duo’s expedition, adding: “Rakaposhi is a dangerous peak. This successful summit is an extraordinary accomplishment. Locals celebrated their success when the duo returned.”
Published in Dawn, July 6th, 2019