RAWALPINDI: Whole chickens on skewers, arranged around a fire, are a common sight in the markets of Rawalpindi and Islamabad. Chicken or meat is roasted over coal to juicy, golden perfection to make Sajji, a dish which originated in Balochistan.

But this Baloch delicacy is now a favourite among meat lovers all over the country and outside Balochistan, variations have been brought in the original recipe to cater to the local palate.

In the original recipe, the lamb or chicken is hollowed out and stuffed with potatoes and rice. The meat is cooked without any spices or oil as it is allowed to tenderise in its own juices. Only salt is added for flavour.

Here in the garrison city, local chefs make a spicier version of Sajji, marinating the meat in garlic, ginger, and papaya paste and seasoning it with spices such as red chilli and black pepper. Depite the availability of gas-ovens, Sajji is always made over an open fire as the burning wood lends a smoky flavour to the meat.

Travelling from Saddar to Faizabad, one finds chickens skewered around coal fires outside many restaurants in Chur Chowk, Saddar, Committee Chowk, Commercial Market, PWD Commercial area and even Bahria Town.

Customers squeeze lemon juice onto the meat which is crisp on the outside and extremely tender and juicy on the inside. Some restaurants serve the Sajji with rice, which is often cooked separately. At other places, customers scoop it up with a Nan and dip it in mint Raita.

Mohammad Akram, who owns a restaurant at Committee Chowk, has been making Sajji for over two decades. He explained that the spicy Sajji is more popular than the salted version.

“The Sajji is different from other types of roasted chicken as the chicken skin is not removed. The skin gets crisp over the fire and we cook it in fat, rather than vegetable oil,” he said.

“The traditional salted Sajji can also be made on demand. We also make lamb or goat Sajji but since that takes more time, it needs to be pre-ordered,” he said.

At Saidpur Road and Banni Chowk, restaurants specialising in Sajji attract hordes of customers late into the night.

“I tried Tikkas, Kebbab and Namkeen Ghosht but the Sajji is my favourite. I have also tried the traditional Baloch Sajji in Quetta but I prefer the spicy version sold in Rawalpindi,” said Mushtaq Ahmed, a visitor at Banni Chowk.

However, he said that if the meat was cooked inside the kitchen, rather than out on the street, it would be more hygienic.

However, Sajid Mehmood, the chef at a local restaurant disagreed and said that the ideal way to cook the Sajji is outdoors. “The open fire lends the Sajji its true flavour. It must be cooked over coals,” he said.

Suleman Malik, a visitor at a restaurant at Saddar, said that the taste of Sajji is different from the roasted chicken or chargha as the meat of Sajji slow cooked and remains tender while the roasted chicken and Chargha meat is crispier.

“We eat Sajji all year round. In the winter it is a treat to sit by the bonfire and watch the meat being cooked but in the summer, we prefer to eat indoors,” he said.

Published in Dawn, June 15th, 2015

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