RAWALPINDI: The story goes that all the restaurants that showcased Pashtun cuisine in Peshawar were owned by members of the Shinwari tribe. When demand for authentic Pashtun food grew, many imitation restaurants opened up overnight. And nearly all of them used the Shinwari name, even though they had nothing to do with the tribe. The only thing each of these restaurants has in common, though, is the delectable array of meat dishes on offer.

Over the years, residents of the twin cities have developed quite a taste for the rich, carnivorous Pashtun diet and as a result, Shinwari restaurants today line the stretch of road from The Mall to Marir Chowk. At night, this neighbourhood comes alive with the smell of cooked lamb meat and the unmistakable odour of lamb fat sizzling on hot coal.

At these establishments, it is the quantity of meat one orders that is charged. You can have it cooked however you want; karahi, tikka, kebabs or lamb chops.

Traditional Pashtun food has a growing market in the garrison city

Of the many outlets here, Haider Road’s Saltish Shinwari and the New Shinwari on Kashmir Road stand out.

The chefs at both restaurants used authentic Pashtun recipes and cook the lamb meat in its own fat, a traditional method that gives the mood a very distinctive flavour and aroma. No spices are used: only yogurt, tomatoes, green chilli and ginger.

The tikkas are preapred by cutting lamb meat into small pieces and wrapping it in fat. It is then skewered and barbequed on glowing coals. Before serving, salt and spices are sprinkled to give the meat an extra kick of flavour, which mixes with the meat’s natural juices to great effect.

Shoulder cut-tikkas are also quite popular. To make this variety, meat from the animal’s shoulder is marinated in yogurt, spices, chilli and salt. The meat is then put on 24-inch metal skewers and cooked on coals.

Mutton karahi, a perennial favourite, is a delightful mix of meat, lamb fat, green chilli, tomatoes, ginger and salt with black pepper added to taste.

This kind of food obviously has a big niche, because this neighbourhood is always full of people, clamouring for a place at the charpoys and tables set out to cater to customers in a decidedly ethnic setting.

The men who cook this food are supremely proud of their traditional heritage. “We have been making these dishes for the past 10 years. This is our traditional food; it is simple and healthy because we don’t use spices in it,” says Mohammad Khan, who works at the New Shinwari restaurant.

There are many ways to cook the meat, but their recipe was simple and healthy. “Some people hang lamb meat outside their outlets and use the Shinwari name, but there are very few actual Shinwari-owned restaurants now,” he said.

He claims that they do not use meat tenderisers. “The meat is hung out to dry outside the shop for six to eight hours, which allows it to cook easily on coal,” he said.

He also said that most people enjoy a cup of refreshing qahwa to wash down the greasy after having the lamb mutton karahi. “Although some people like cold drinks with their food, but we always recommend a cup of green tea.”

Yasir Shinwari of Shinwari Saltish told Dawn that most of his customers clamour after mutton karahi or the traditional dumpukht – lamb meat with tomatoes, yogurt and fat cooked on a low flame until tendered.

Noman Malik, a food lover having his dinner at the New Shinwari Restaurant, said that his family loved to barbequed meat and that Shinwari restaurants were the best place for a meat feast. “It is easy to digest as there are less spices,” he said.

Published in Dawn, December 29th, 2014