Road to PLBW: Showcase sneak peeks and designer insights

The Pakistan Fashion Design Council (PFDC) L’Oreal Bridal Week is always one of the highlights of the fashion calendar. Now in its fourth consecutive year, PLBW defines the hottest bridal trends, from joras to jewelery, and highlights the hair and makeup looks that are en vogue for the upcoming wedding season.

The collections that will be shown this year in Lahore from September 30 to October 2, 2014 have drawn inspiration from a pool that varies from real-life Russian royalty (Ammara Khan), the Roman civilization (Ali Xeeshan), Queens of the subcontinent (Akif Mahmood, Nickie Nina, Sofia Chishti), folk lore and folk art (Zara Shahjahan, Wardha Saleem, Sana Safinaz), intricate ornamentation (Sania Maskatiya) to flowers (Nomi Ansari, Misha Lakhani, Karma Red, Mahgul), puppets and dolls (Fahad Hussayn), the lives of iconic individuals (Meena Kumari at Asifa and Nabeel and Mirza Ghalib at Nida Azwer) to a celebration of the wedding itself (Shamaeel Ansari) and even some Shakespeare thrown in for good measure (Saira Shakira).

Aside from all of this, the show’s producer and choreographer HSY will be kicking things off on Day 1 with a collection that is a culmination of his 20 years of experience in the industry. If the previews are anything to go by, Pakistan’s premiere Bridal Week will certainly not disappoint this year.

Brides to be and fashion enthusiasts everywhere take note, here’s a sneak peek at some of the collections that will be showcased at PLBW this year, and will be defining bridal trends for the year to come.

Sania Maskatiya

Collection: Ara-ornaments

Q. What is the inspiration behind this collection?

SM: Ara-Ornaments draws inspiration from the art of ornamentation and features decorative motifs and techniques used over centuries.

Q. What is the week leading up to PLBW like for you?

SM: It's hectic and crazy making sure all the pieces are finished properly and everything is in order.

Q. How do you personally prep for fashion week?

SM: No personal prepping as such, just a whole lot of excitement to see our collection shape up and be on the runway.

Q. Fashion week essential that you cannot do without?

SM: Having many to-do lists so we’re super organised to avoid last minute panic.

Q. Favourite fashion week haunt in Lahore?

SM: Andaaz, deli and Cosa (Nostra) for Nutella ice cream.

HSY

Collection: Divine.Decadence

Q. What is the inspiration behind this collection?

HSY: The inspiration for the collection stems from my travels and my reflections on the industry. Divine.Decadence is a manifestation of contradictions in our society. The collection endeavors to fuse two sources of inspiration - conflicts and challenges - within my own journey and particularly with respect to women and the way they are viewed in our society.

Q. What is the week leading up to PLBW like for you? How do you prep for fashion week?

HSY: For me PLBW is a dual experience. Not only am I a participating designer but I also head the production of the complete bridal showcase. I get excited about the audience response to my show but the overall atmosphere at PLBW is always electric and is something I look forward to experiencing in person.

Q. Fashion week essential that you cannot do without?

HSY: My wonderful team at HSY!

Shamaeel Ansari

Collection: The Wedding

Q. What is the inspiration behind this collection?

SA: The concept behind this collection is to take away the usual focus just from ‘The Bride’s Rukhsati Jora’ to the entire wedding as a timeless occasion in its entirety. This includes the saffron tinge of the Mayuns, the frolic of Mehendi, pristine ivory for the Nikkah ceremonies, the glamorous metallics in the trousseau and the regal red romance of the Rukhsati, not just for the bride but also her family and close friends whose dresses are just as important.

Q. What is the week leading up to PLBW like for you?

SA: The week leading up to PLBW'14 is full of a lot of excitement coupled with tons of hard work that comes as part and parcel of attention to intricate details and quality workmanship. We look forward to the culmination of all our efforts when it walks out on the ramp!

Q. How do you prep for fashion week?

SA: Personal preparations for fashion week are actually overshadowed completely by the multitude of tasks on the show front. From designing to production to operations and the post show exhibitions. I do plan on taking a relaxing spa break once the fashion and eid season is over!

Q. Favourite fashion week haunt in Lahore?

SA: A friend's place. There's nothing like a relaxing evening of casual chatter with a friend in the comfort of her lounge, over a steaming cup of coffee.

Seher Tareen

Collection: The Emperor's Assassins

Q. What is the inspiration behind this collection?

ST: A Chinese cult movie masterpiece called Hero directed by Zhang Yimou. I fell in love with the film when I saw it years ago and I'm ecstatic that I was able to translate it into a collection. There are a lot of Chinese motifs such as dragons, cranes, chinoiserie and calligraphy on organzas and nets, paired with rich velvets and silks, in the collection.

Q. What is the week leading up to PLBW like for you?

ST: It is surprisingly calm, as I have been able to manage the work and stay on track!

Q. How do you personally prep for fashion week?

ST: By making sure everything is in order! Being calm is a prerequisite for good work, as far as I'm concerned.

Q. Fashion week essential, that you cannot do without?

ST: Usually a statement jacket (to wear), a bottle of water and a pair of flats (for backstage).

Q. Favourite fashion week haunt in Lahore?

ST: I live in Lahore, so right now it's probably Pompeii - it's new and I like the ambience.

Nida Azwer

Collection: The Ghalib Collection

Q. What is the inspiration behind this collection?

NAz: This year I have taken inspiration from the famous poet Mirza Ghalib. Ghalib's love of poetry and mysticism was well known in the Mughal Court. This collection also portrays my love for Mughal culture where I have worked with beautiful fabrics such as lamé, tissue, brocade and silks, and incorporated different techniques of embroidery to give the collection a feel of grandeur and luxury.

Q. What is the week leading up to PLBW like for you?

NAz: Absolute madness! I will be attending one of my best friend’s wedding in Thailand, so it'll be crazy shuffling between Skype calls and the wedding miles away from my work!

Q. How do you prep for fashion week?

NAz: For bridal week we start preparing months in advance since everything is hand embroidered and is very labour intensive.

Q. Fashion week essential that you cannot do without?

NAz: Safety pins!

Nomi Ansari

Collection: GUL

Q. What is the inspiration behind this collection?

NAn: GUL is inspired by the idea of what the name itself suggests: flowers - all and any, with a vintage theme, but not your typical vintage. It's a contemporary collection which focuses on lighter hues and tones, but is nonetheless colorful as our design philosophy suggests. We are using fabrics like net, lace, velvet and silk. One will feel the nostalgia in this current yet old school themed collection.

Q. What is the week leading up to PLBW like for you?

NAn: It’s always hustle bustle and a whirlwind of last minute details, and of course the overwhelming feeling of showing. It's like a yin yang effect.

Q. Fashion week essential you can’t do without?

NAn: Sleep! Which of course we rarely get! Otherwise, not much really except my phone.

Q. Favourite fashion week haunt in Lahore?

NAn: Arammish Health Spa.

Zara Shahjahan

Collection: A Folk Tale

Q. What is the inspiration behind this collection?

ZS: The brand has taken inspiration from a hybrid of cultures, heritage and folk stories that have mystified our imaginations for ages. The colors and prints speak volumes about ethnicity and culture, amalgamated with rich eastern embellishments.

Q. What is the week leading up to PLBW like for you?

ZS: Hectic! Its work, work and work; from ensuring that each outfit turns out exactly as it was conceptualized to finalizing the nitty gritty of the show - music, models, styling etc. It’s crazy but exhilarating.

Q. How do you prep for fashion week?

ZS: It’s a long process. Drawing inspiration, fabric selections, color palettes, cuts and embellishments all start months before a collection actually comes into being.

Q. The fashion week essential that you cannot do without?

ZS: My iPad is a life saver.

Q. Your favourite fashion week haunt in Lahore?

ZS: With all the madness associated with putting together a collection, my favourite spot is home! I come back, relax, spend time with my daughter and just unwind.

Misha Lakhani:

Collection: Nowruz

Q. What is the inspiration behind this collection?

ML: Nowruz celebrates old-fashioned romance and the idea of paradise, replete with blooming floral clusters, fireworks, birds and bugs. I love looking to past decades to inspire collections, but always with my current context in mind. The clothing has to be as effortless as it is beautiful.

Q. What is the week leading up to PLBW like for you?

ML: It's been a most chaotic month because I had a show in Los Angeles back to back with my cousin’s destination wedding, which ends two days before my show in Lahore.

Q. How do you personally prep for fashion week?

ML: I agonize over the tiniest of details. Not sure if this is a good or bad thing; I suppose it's just my personality! But details speak volumes so it's very important to me that every piece is articulated in a way that is synonymous with my brand.

Q. The fashion week essential that you cannot do without?

ML: A to-do list, fruit and coffee.

Q. Your favourite fashion week haunt in Lahore?

ML: My friend Bunny's cozy living room.

Fahad Hussayn

Collection: Putlighar

Q: What is the inspiration behind this collection?

FH: Mankind has its flaws; no one practices what they preach, yet they all continue to fight for their existence and their autonomy, not realizing we are all a part of the same theatre where this play is frolicked. Some are puppets and some are puppeteers. Life unfolds its own drama every day with every one and steers all strings. PUTLIGHAR is a visual comment on socio-political anthropology, hierarchies and the rise and fall of love lost to war, what awaits on the runway is my homage to puppetry. We would like to thank the The Museum of Puppetry and Rafi Peer Theatre for their support in expanding our horizons of research and Samina Peerzada & Yameena Peerzada for sharing their extensive knowledge of puppetry.

Q: What was the week leading up to PLBW like for you?

FH: Extremely stressful. A collection is somehow emotionally attached to you .

Q: How do you personally prep for fashion week?

FH: I hardly indulge in any extravagances, but this time around I found time to make a few pieces for myself too .

Q: The fashion week essential that you cannot do without?

FH: Accessories mostly.

Q: Your favourite fashion week haunt in Lahore?

FH: Shahalmi Bazaar.

Akif Mahmood

Collection: VIRASAT

Q: What is the inspiration behind the collection?

AM: An imaginary character. A queen of the subcontinent who has inherited all the jewels and property of the royal families which once ruled the subcontinent - including sikhs, nawabs, rajputs and mughals. So the collection revolves around the whole get up and the life style of the character. Rich jewel like embroideries and embellishments are used on the most luxurious fabrics.

Q: What was the week leading up to PLBW like for you?

AM: Panic attacked! I’m really excited but at the same time nervous too since it's my first bridal showcase.

Q: How do you personally prep for fashion week?

AM: I'm a very casual sort of a person when comes to my own preparations.I just have to be neat and presentable!

Q: The fashion week essential that you cannot do without?

AM: My sister and a group of my cousins to help me at the venue. It would be impossible without them as they handle a lot of things.

Q: Your favourite fashion week haunt in Lahore?

AM: MY HOME! During fashion week I get so tired that I prefer going home, but since friends come from karachi also, we do go out for dinner and relax!

Ammara Khan

Collection: The Winter Palace: A Celebration of the Russian Tsarina

Q: What is the inspiration behind this collection?

AK: The collection, inspired by the luxurious and opulent lifestyles of the Russian Royalty, comprises of structured jackets, tapered long trousers, floor-sweeping gowns, voluminous skirts, A-line flowing tunics and classic saris. The materials used include silk brocades, French laces, net, velvet and organza.

We’ve employed exquisite age-old techniques of embroidery using silver and gold thread with meticulous craftsmanship, embellished with crystals, semi-precious stones and lustrous pearls. The color palette is inspired by the festive colors of the historic Winter Palace and the gowns and uniforms of The Tsars and Tsarinas, featuring hues such as rich gold, silvers, soft pastels, amber, taupe, Prussian blues, coral and ivory.

Mahgul

Collection: A Wild Rose

Q: What is the inspiration behind this collection?

M: An interpretation of modern femininity; a femininity that speaks of comfort in one’s own skin and where elegance is effortless. With a colour palette inspired by the hues of the setting sun, expect silhouettes that are based in the concept of layering and bridal wear as separates.

The silhouette and embellishment inspirations metaphorically draw on the wild rose that grows unabashed by its own vivacity, reveling in its bold bursts of colour - strong, yet delicately balanced in its layered assemblage.

The collection is predominately based in fabrics such as nets and heavy silks with embellishment in silk and gold threads, feathers and mother of pearl.