The clock tower is a sight to behold, and shows accurate Pakistan Standard Time. It's one of the rare old clock towers in Karachi that is in mint condition, or so it looks. Well, it has to look unblemished, for the tower is part of a building that's no ordinary work of construction. In the days gone by it was known as the Jaffer Fuddoo Dispensary. Today it serves as the administrative or office block of the Kutiyana Memon Hospital (KMH).

Although the modern-looking, multi-storey KMH has enveloped the beautiful yesteryear dispensary, the latter hasn't lost its glory. The stone used in its making is clean and solid; the entrance arched; the windows beautiful. Nowadays it is pretty hard to acknowledge the architectural attributes of the Jaffer Fuddoo Dispensary as a separate piece because the size of the hospital built around it (behind it, to be exact) is so extensive that your attention invariably loses its focus and you get distracted. There's a constant buzz in the vicinity too caused by patients and their attendants, which is understandable. So you seldom get time to fondly look at the Jaffer Fuddoo Dispensary for a longish period. Still, what a crackerjack of a sight!

Before you get to know the vital information on the historic structure, a brief account of a place in the same precincts called Macchi Miani wouldn't be a wasteful exercise. They say, barring the smelly part, it's one of the most known, if not the largest, fish markets in Karachi, and if you know your seafood well, there's a slim chance you won't get a good deal.

Back to the old dispensary. Owing to the endless coming-and-going of disease-stricken people accompanied by their helpers, it is nearly impossible to chat up with the people concerned regarding the background to, and the current state of, the building. However, perseverance always pays.

CEO and administrator of the KMH Zaheeruddin says, “The Jaffer Fuddoo Dispensary was built in 1904-05 by a Muslim philanthropist. As you can see, it's nice, sturdy stonework. In 1988-89 KMC leased it to us to build a hospital for the Kutiyana Memon community and to widen the scope of its services.

“Yes a new facility has been constructed around the old one, but we take good care of the whole premises. That is the reason you see the clock tower and the rest of the structure in a good condition,” says Zaheeruddin.

It'll be unwise to dispute the claim. Yet you cannot take pictures of the building's interior. Fair enough.

In the last quarter of the 19the century and early 20th century, Muslims in Karachi had started to become a bit more affluent than they were. In those days eight newspapers and periodicals were published from the city. One of them, the Phoenix, was the only English language newspaper whose management comprised native people. The Phoenix was established by none other than Mr Jaffer Fuddoo. He was also its editor and proprietor.

Facts suggest the dispensary made by Mr Fuddoo was the first constructed by a Muslim humanitarian to serve the underprivileged. Architecturally it has hybrid features with the kind of arcading, experts believe, that local merchants in those days used in different forms of construction. Its most prominent facet is the central clock tower topped by octagonal projecting eaves with a cupola.

This inevitably makes you think of the culture of clock towers that Karachi had when time wasn't a cruel tyrant, but a direction-giver, a guide. Every few yards you had not just a clock but an intrinsically rich culture tied in with it. The Merewether Memorial, the Eduljee Dinshaw Dispensary, Lea Market, Empress Market... you name it.

Architect Mukhtar Husain says, “As you know the Jaffer Fuddoo Dispensary was the first building made by a Muslim philanthropist. Before that we see examples of generous Parsi and Hindu people contributing their bit to Karachi's cityscape. But in the beginning of the 20th century, the Muslim community had become more organised and started acquiring education.

“There's no clear-cut architectural category that the building can fit into. It's a mix of a few forms. It has arcades, arches, a cupola, gabled roof etc. I think Ms Yasmeen Lari helped restore it and did a good job. I'm particularly pleased to hear that its tower is functional. Otherwise there've been instances, as in the case of the Eduljee Dinshaw Dispensary, where the clock was sold to a junk dealer.

“Every city has its landmarks that impart identity to it. Certain things get lost in the environment. But if they're accentuated, they become memorable. A century ago, clock towers were the commonly used landmarks or symbols in Karachi. What's sad is that we've vandalised our old city. Public awareness is needed to rectify the situation. To achieve that, we have to first accept that these things are part of our history. There are buildings on Burnes Road that were made at the turn of the 20th century; people have erased their original names because they weren't Islamic. This short-term attitude needs to be checked,” says Mukhtar Husain.

According to the Jaffer Fuddoo clock, it's 5pm. The sun has begun to disappear into the Arabian Sea. The year is 2010. Tomorrow the sun will again rise from the east, illuminating a city which is looking for another Jaffer Fuddoo -- a humanitarian, an editor, a builder.

mohammad.salman@dawn.com