Passing through Rawalpindi recently I spotted some rather straggly, badly neglected Sambucus nigra shrubs, stubbornly clinging to life despite the incredibly dense traffic smog and atmospheric pollution on and adjacent to the Murree Road area of this very overcrowded city and I remembered two things: Firstly that I should write about them for you and, secondly, a ‘powerful’ childhood memory associated with these useful plants. Sambucus nigra, more commonly known as elderberry, is not indigenous to Pakistan — although a close relative Sambucus wightiana or dwarf elder is native to northern regions — and, as far as I can ascertain, was most probably introduced during the days of the British Raj when reliance on herbal medicines was part and parcel of life.

A relatively short-lived, temperate climate species (I have also seen it thriving in Lahore and ‘think’ that it just may survive in Karachi too), elderberry is very fast growing and can, in favourable conditions, live long enough to form a tree although it is generally seen as a medium-sized shrub, up to approximately 10 to 12 feet in height and can, providing that a large enough container is used, be pot grown in places where actual garden space is limited.

Its botanical name Sambucus, has its roots in ancient Greece where the pliable wood was used in the craftsmanship employed to make a particular kind of harp called a Sambuke. The hollow branches were also used to make Pan-pipes and the shrubs were often planted outside the back doors of houses to prevent evil spirits from entering. Presumably something else was grown outside the front door for the very same reason!

Sambucus nigra, not, under any circumstances, to be confused with ‘Sambucus Canadensis or American elder which is lethally poisonous, has a number of culinary and medicinal uses with its beautiful, dark purple-black berries, large creamy flower heads and bark all being used. Even in the coldest of hill station winters, it can be had in flower all year round.

Not at all particular about soil conditions, it is easy to germinate from autumn sown seed or multiplied by taking semi-ripe cuttings of new growth during late summer into early autumn. Sow fresh seed just under the surface of well draining, organic compost, place the seed tray/pot in partial shade, keep moist but not wet and germination should begin in three to four weeks’ time. As this is sporadic, allow at least three full months for all viable seeds to grow. The only attention established plants require, aside from regular watering during dry spells, is a hard prune back in late autumn and to watch out for runners — these should be dug out and removed otherwise a single plant can form a thicket in no time at all.

Now, let’s take a look at the actual uses of these beneficial shrubs; butterflies and bees adore the blossom and birds will devour the berries long before you get the chance.

The vitamin C-rich berries can be added to fruit pies — apple and elderberry pie is delicious — made into a cordial to be used in the treatment of migraine, neuralgia, coughs, colds and flu, to relieve constipation and, it is claimed, they are beneficial in the treatment of gout and rheumatism. Fresh or dried berries make an excellent addition to sauces served with either meat or fish and can also be added, in moderation, to herbal teas.

Elderberries, some people call them wild grapes, are an interesting addition to jams and jellies but one must take care that they are fully cooked as they contain natural yeast which will cause fermentation if it is not fully destroyed at a high temperature.

The flower heads are nectar rich, sweetly scented and can be used, fresh or dried, in place of sugar in fruit pies and in drinks. They can also be dipped in batter and fried as a delicious snack, be added to fresh salads or made into a wonderfully refreshing cold drink which, it is said, reduces bronchial catarrh. Used externally, an infusion of the flowers is useful in the treatment of conjunctivitis. The flowers can also be made into a gargle for sore throats and tonsillitis. So simple to cultivate, they should be far more popular than they currently are.

Elderberries make excellent back-of-the-border shrubs and these tough customers can also be used to green-up roadside areas and, before I finish, having mentioned ‘powerful childhood memories’ I better tell you what these are. Being curious about the adult habit of smoking I was, at the age of 10 years, one of an adventurous group of children who dared, hidden away in a secret den, to light the end of a six-inch piece of hollow elderberry branch and smoke it. Yikes! It was awful!

Please send your gardening queries to zahrahnasir@hotmail.com. Remember to include your location. The writer will not respond directly by e-mail