Most of us women start shopping for jewellery when we are getting married. We set out looking for a fancy wedding set that will suitably match our wedding ensemble, something affordable, or perhaps to reset or simply polish a family heirloom. Weddings spark off our interest in the finest things in life — gems and jewellery — and we step out in quest of the perfect pieces for our engagement, wedding or trousseau. It’s an interest that never dies thereon.

Like everything else, jewellery trends too change every year, though classics remain timeless and eternally in vogue. The trick is to invest in pieces that fit both moods and look timeless yet trendy. Experts in fine jewellery advise on what kind of jewellery to invest in this year:

Though we are not privy to Harry Winston jewels in Pakistan, a quick trip to the website will at least educate us on classic trends in diamond jewellery these days. Diamonds are indisputably a girl’s best friend and they are everyone’s first choice. It’s important to know what to invest in. Cocktail rings are still in fashion, the bigger your rock the more attention it will draw. In the section titled The Incredibles, Harry Winston labels his rings as Sugerloaf Sapphire, Lavender Spinel, Paraiba Tourmaline and of course, classic ruby and emerald, each one with diamonds. Each piece is a collector’s item.

“Wedding jewellery these days has become more exclusive,” says Farah Khan Ali of Farah Khan Fine Jewellery, who is the Harry Winston of India and has a celebrity clientele just as vast. “Gone are the days where every bride wanted to load herself with jadau (uncut diamond or polki) jewellery from her family jeweller. The bride of today is looking at owning heirloom pieces be they in jadau or plain diamonds but with a twist in design that makes her truly outshine everyone on her wedding day. So you have unusual necklines in different lengths combined with larger diamonds and precious gemstones such as emeralds or rubies.”

“Reinventing vintage by combining jadau and diamonds along with using goswada (briolette) diamonds is also very in as it gives the jewellery an old world charm and makes it truly unique,” she adds. “A lot of multi layering is done using different length strands to create a regal maharani look. Bridal jewellery today is far more unique than it ever was. Fashionable while retaining the precious look, brides are selecting pieces they can make maximum use of and that don’t just stay in their lockers.”

“With gold threatening to touch almost $2000 a troy ounce, creating as well as shopping for bridal jewellery has never been more challenging,” says jewellery designer Uzma Durrani who creates for Lahore’s established bridal house, Ideal Fashion.

“Non-compromising, signature pieces in gold mean volume which immediately throws up metal weight questions, pushing dramatic works out of most people’s buying range. Rather than going for badly made, 21 kt, dead ant heaps of filigree and polkee designs to create the illusion of large surfaces and volume, young working women are investing in 18 kt gold or gold plated sterling silver jewellery. Whether it is yellow, rose, ultra white or grey gold colour that complements the bridal outfit, my job in most commissioned works is to help people strike a balance between what they want and what they can afford. But as a rule of thumb, my advice is: Please avoid precious metal junk jewellery or crawly ant filigree and thin chain assemblies (a complete insult to the necklace format!) and go for crisp classical pieces.”

Sherezad, who has a high society clientele in Karachi, agrees that gold prices are driving women to economise. “Our current designs include detachable locket sets in yellow gold mixed with semi-precious stones,” she says. The detachable element makes the piece more diverse. “These sets look glamorous and yet are very affordable in view of the high gold prices which seem to be rising.”

Kiran Aman of KFJ, a brand associated with artistic collections of jewellery has a different opinion, perhaps because her clientele is more exclusive and includes women who can appreciate as well as afford jewellery as art.

“Most of my clients buy what they fall in love with,” she says. “I haven't seen any difference in buying trends. They buy anything that fits the kind of style statement they want to make.” — AHI