GILGIT: Pakistani mountaineer Sirbaz Khan has successfully summited the Annapurna peak in Nepal without using supplementary oxygen.

His brother, Shahbaz Khan, confirmed that the 38-year-old climber reached the summit of Annapurna, the world’s 10th highest peak, at approximately 10:50am PST on Monday.

Mr Khan is the first Pakistani climber to have summited all 14 mountains with the height of over 8,000m in the world.

He is also the first Pakistani to scale 13 of them in alpine style — without oxygen support, according to Karrar Haidri, the secretary of the Alpine Club of Pakistan.

He has scaled Everest, K2, Lhotse, Makalu, Cho Oyu, Dhaulagiri, Manaslu, Nanga Parbat, Annapurna-I, Gasherbrum-I, Gasherbrum-II, Broad Peak and Shishapangma.

The only remaining peak for Mr Khan to complete the list is Kanchenjunga (8,586m), the world’s third-highest mountain, situated in Nepal.

He was part of the Imagine Nepal expedition team.

Mingma G, the team owner, told Dawn that Mr Khan was on a solo summit without the support of oxygen and porters.

He said Mr Khan descended to Camp 3 of the peak and expected to reach the base camp today (Tuesday).

Mr Khan started his summit on Annapurna on March 27.

In 2019, he became the first Pakistani to summit Mount Lhotse, the world’s fourth-highest mountain in Nepal, without the use of supplementary oxygen.

Mr Khan, who hails from Gilgit Baltistan, also has three successful ascents of K2 to his credit.

Published in Dawn, April 8th, 2025