BALATONFLDVR: Ringed by once-free beaches and green parks, Hungary’s Lake Balaton has delighted generations of holidaymakers — but now, locals warn, private developers are fencing off the sandy bays for rich visitors, with the nationalist government’s blessing.

Luxury hotels, apartment blocks and closed-off marinas have begun in recent years to replace the free-entry beaches, campsites and greenery around central Europe’s largest freshwater lake — affectionately known as the “Hungarian Sea”.

Some locals warn the trend threatens traditional tourism and blame the changes on Prime Minister Viktor Orban.

Critics accuse the nationalist leader of letting his allies take over large swathes of the economy since his 2010 return to power. “I’m seriously worried,” said Peter Karpati, a local activist who has been selling ice cream for almost 40 years in the port of Balatonfoldvar. He denounces the “greed that is gradually eating away at the lake and leading it to ruin.” The lake, with its 235-kilometre shoreline, sees 2.8 million visitors each year, mostly Hungarians.

But figures from the state statistical office show a decline in overnight stays in June year-on-year even though total spending by visitors has increased, against a backdrop of gentrification and soaring prices. Karpati accuses the municipality of “flushing away” money on “senseless” developments instead of focusing on attracting tourists.

Tiborcz said he was involved only on an “intermittent basis” several years ago and said “misleading” claims had been made about his role. He is considering moving his shop — in exchange for a hefty check from the municipality — to make way for “a big entrepreneur in Orban’s system”.

Published in Dawn, August 20th, 2024