Tracing the origins of Rawalpindi’s main landmarks

Published February 9, 2020
Hathi Chowk, the main square of Rawalpindi’s Saddar, connects the cantonment’s commercial hub to the city.
Hathi Chowk, the main square of Rawalpindi’s Saddar, connects the cantonment’s commercial hub to the city.

Once the centre of British control over north and northwest India, Rawalpindi slowly developed into a commercial and cultural hub of the country.

The narrow downtown streets are still lined with buildings and markers of various religions and cultures that inhabited the garrison city.

From remnants of the city’s Hindu and Sikh communities to Anglo-Indian culture and buildings adorned by Kashmiri and Afghan woodwork, painting and grillwork, these sites dominate the landscape of Rawalpindi and need to be preserved and promoted as historic sites.

Massey Gate

Massey Gate was built in 1880 on the main road from Kashmir Road towards Chota Bazaar in Saddar. Although the gate itself has been removed, the area is still commonly called Massey Gate.

The gate was named after the first commissioner of Rawalpindi under colonial rule, Col Charles Massey. Locals said that there used to be a library above the gate known as the Jain Public Library, which was opened by Parsi businessman Fakirji Dhunjibhouy.Former district nazim Raja Tariq Mehboob Kiani told Dawn that the gate stood in the Saddar area before the 80s, which was called Massey Gate. He said the area was famous, and was still known by this name.

Babu Mohallah

The main secretariat of the British East India Company’s military department opened in Calcutta House on Adamjee Road. Most of the people who came to the secretariat were from Bengal and were called ‘babu’, which meant an educated person.

Accommodation for such officials was established on Kashmir Road and City Saddar Road square, and the area became known as Babu Mohallah.

Banni

The full name of this main square is Banni Mai Veero, named after a pond in the area where women came to bathe and wash clothes.

Locals said Mai Veero was a Hindu woman who was considered a saint. The pond in question is near Jain Temple in Kohati Bazaar, the largest temple in Rawalpindi.

Thandi Sarak

After British forces arrived, they built The Mall, a main road where all military and civil offices were located. This included the General Headquarters of Northern India and Civil and Military Mess.

Because the road used to be lined with trees, it was nicknamed Thandi Sarak.

Hathi Chowk

The main square of Saddar Bazaar is commonly known as Hathi Chowk.

Azam Abbasi, who owns an old hotel in this area, explained that the square was named after elephants that were once kept there. He said that his hotel was established there after partition, and the main square was already known as Hathi Chowk at the time. He added that he heard about the elephants from elders, and had never seen them in the area himself.

Other locals said that the square was named for the statue of an elephant.

Purana Qila

A temple and the jharoka of an old house in visible on the main lane in Purana Qila. Around 200 years ago, Rawalpindi city was limited to this area.
A temple and the jharoka of an old house in visible on the main lane in Purana Qila. Around 200 years ago, Rawalpindi city was limited to this area.

Before the British arrived in Rawalpindi, the old city was located in Purana Qila and known as Qila Pind Rawal.

With the British occupation, the city expanded towards Gawalmandi, Mohallah Workshopi, Raja Bazaar, Mohallah Shah Chan Chiragh, Mohallah Waris Khan, Banni, Mohallah Imambargah, Dhoke Ratta Amral and Dhoke Khabba.

Bagh Sardaran

The gurdwara in Bagh Sardaran is more than a century old. It was built as part of a garden by Sujan Singh, which has since been turned into a residential area.
The gurdwara in Bagh Sardaran is more than a century old. It was built as part of a garden by Sujan Singh, which has since been turned into a residential area.

Sardar Sujan Singh Rai Bahadur constructed a garden in this area before partition. Some say that the garden was named after Sujan Singh’s sister Sardaran, while others say it was owned by a Sikh family and was therefore named ‘Sardaran da Bagh’. The family also built a gurdwara in the garden, as well as a library and a school. The garden disappeared after partition and people have built homes in the area.

Raja Bazaar

Raja Bazaar is the commercial hub of the city to this day. According to local residents, it earned the name Raja Bazaar because of the presence of local Rajput traders. However, some people said the area is known as ‘Raja’, or king, because it is the main commercial centre in the city.

They said that the area was mostly populated by Hindu and Sikh traders, with very few Muslim traders working there, and so was called the main bazaar or Raja Bazaar.

Bhabara Bazaar

An old house in Bhabara Bazaar, named for the Jain merchant community that lived in this part of the city. — Photos by Tanveer Shahzad & Mohammad Asim
An old house in Bhabara Bazaar, named for the Jain merchant community that lived in this part of the city. — Photos by Tanveer Shahzad & Mohammad Asim

This residential and business centre is named for the Bhabar community, who were a merchant community belonging to the Jain faith. Bhabars were traders and goldsmiths who worked in what are today known as Sarafa Bazaar and Moti Bazaar. The wealthy merchants built beautiful houses in this area that are still standing today.

Published in Dawn, February 9th, 2020

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