The symbols that herald the arrival of Muharram

Published September 16, 2018
Alams displayed at a shop.
Alams displayed at a shop.

In the downtown area of Rawalpindi, black Alams flutter from the rooftops of houses and shops, a symbol of the Battle of Karbala that is commemorated in Muharram.

With the start of the month, sales of such items increase in the city, and craftsmen in the old bazaar from Purana Qila to Sarafa Bazaar work day and night to meet the demand.

The art of making such symbols is an old one in South Asia, and flourished particularly under Mughal rule. In Rawalpindi, shops that deal in items of such significance have been around for 80 to 100 years.

Their products include Alams, Punjas, swings, cradles, fabric plaques and more. The Alam, which is the Arabic word for ‘flag’, commemorates the Alam Bardar (flag carrier) Hazrat Abbas, the son of Hazrat Ali who died at Karbala. Black Alams signify mourning, while red Alams are installed on the shrine of Imam Hussain.

A goldsmith in Sarafa Bazaar inscribes an Alam.
A goldsmith in Sarafa Bazaar inscribes an Alam.

Such items have been used for decades in imambargahs and Ashura processions, and their makers say the work is one of religious devotion.

Haider Ali, an Alam maker, said he makes items of religious significance out of his love for the Ahl-i-Bait, the family of the Prophet Muhammad (PBUH).

“I have been working to make such replicas for the last 40 years. People also place orders for cradles, which are associated with Hazrat Ali Asghar, the six-month-old son of Imam Hussain, who was killed in Karbala,” he said.

Workers embroider Alams using machines.
Workers embroider Alams using machines.

“Although I have worked as a goldsmith, moulding steel into a Punja is a labour of love as well as an art. Most palm symbols come from Lahore and Gujranwala to Rawalpindi, but a few people make it for their passion,” he added.

The process to make the Punja is simple, he said, but the cradle takes longer and is made in three stages.

“Our work is not limited to Muharram but carries on for the whole year. Most people install Alams and Punjas on their roofs, so they come to the bazaar and place orders according to their requirement,” he said.

Adrees Butt, who embroiders Alams and veils, has also been in the business for 40 years. He said he has made Alams that were installed in various parts of the city and used in the main mourning processions.

A cradle at a shop near the shrine of Hazrat Shah Chan Chiragh. — Photos by Mohammad Asim
A cradle at a shop near the shrine of Hazrat Shah Chan Chiragh. — Photos by Mohammad Asim

“I learned the art from artisans from Srinagar and Lahore. My son is also in the field. We make zari work – embroidery with a golden thread – and simple embroidery,” he said.

A normal-sized Alam takes about a week to make, he said, but larger ones can take two to three weeks. Workers usually start manufacturing after Ramazan, so the items can be completed before Muharram starts.

A shop owner, Ishtiaq Qureshi, said these shops have been around for 80 to 100 years. The items they make are used in Muharram processions, but many people also keep them in their homes out of religious devotion.

Published in Dawn, September 16th, 2018

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