RAWALAKOT: A narrow path winds through Kashmir’s Valley of Pearls towards 13 tin-roofed shops hidden in a rickety row, a women-only market that doubles as a space for those seeking help against the violence of patriarchy.

The market, in a small village outside the Rawalakot city in a conservative corner of Azad Kashmir, began simply as a place run by women for women.

There they could buy and sell sewing supplies, visit clothing boutiques or train as beauticians — a welcome outlet for many.

Social worker Nusrat Yousuf, who works with victims of domestic violence through the non-governmental organisation (NGO) she heads, helped persuade a generous landlord to provide the land to set up the market in 2011.

Women in the area, she says, are forbidden by their families to work in the main markets in the area’s towns and cities.

“They become frustrated when they can’t get jobs and spend their lives at home,” the 48-year-old widow says.

The market, from which men were at first banned, has helped make women economically strong.

Ms Yousuf describes it as a place “where they can visit and freely discuss all their issues — such as childbirth, menstruation, cooking and domestic issues, and we find solutions”. They tell divorced women and victims of domestic violence how to lodge complaints with police and fight their cases in courts.

Scores of women are murdered each year — usually by male relatives— in so-called honour killings and disfiguring acid attacks also happen.

Rights groups and politicians have for years called for tougher laws to tackle perpetrators of violence against women in the country.

“Police were not arresting an influential man who cut off the nose of his wife three months ago,” the social worker says, describing just one of the cases she has handled from her office in the market.

“She approached us, and our NGO staged a protest against police,” Ms Yousuf explains, adding that she then met police officials and lodged a complaint. “Now the culprit is in police custody. We have hired a female lawyer to fight the case.”

Razia Bibi, a 35-year-old mother of two whose husband divorced her five months ago, described how she is receiving help to navigate the courts to seek alimony from her children’s father.

“I am hopeful that the verdict will be in my favour,” she says.

Ms Yousuf says her Pearl Rural Support Programme organisation, which brings together women’s groups in seven villages, is also lobbying the government for a separate desk for women at every police station, where they can speak to a female officer more comfortably.

Ms Yousuf says that, originally, men were banned from entering the market. Now they can enter — but only in the company of a woman.

The market has made life easier, says customer Ayesha Bibi. “We had to travel to the main markets for such things in the past, and we needed the company of a male family member to go there,” she explains.

It is also providing economic opportunities for those such as computer graduate Sara Rasheed, whose family refused her permission to work in any area dominated by men.

She convinced them to allow her to open a beauty parlour and a garment shop in the market, she says. “I am earning a good income and saving lots of money for my future and family,” she adds proudly.

Khurshid Begum, a 42-year-old widow and mother of four, opened a tailor’s shop and teaches sewing to young girls there.

“My business has flourished... My income has increased,” she says.

Published in Dawn November 28th, 2016