The Diva’ni debut show in Lahore, the city that also hosts its first international couture flagship store, showcased a collection seeped in Bollywood-ish glamour and glitter. Then again, it is a brand known for grand shows in India with the celebrity quotient high on their agenda.

The 100-year-old Mian Salli ki haveli in the old part of Lahore was the ideal milieu for the couture show titled Bagh-e-Bahar or The Garden of Spring, personifying the richness of the Mughal era and the golden period of royal dynasties.

To the credit of the creative director Diva’ni Saniya Dhir from India and local partner Shakil Zandani, Bagh-e-Bahar along with Rahat Fateh Ali Khan singing kalam from the era on which the collection was based, did full justice to the concept. The idea was not to do a traditional ramp show with the grandeur of the clothes which you can’t put on a normal runway. The collection had to unfold against the beauty of the haveli and to the voice of the music maestro.

Lahore revisits the opulence and grandeur of the Mughal era with a fashion bonanza

“Diva’ni does stand-alone shows which are one-of-a-kind and has never been a part of any bridal week. We are happy with our first solo show in Pakistan,” said Dhir post-event.

As opposed to showing at a fashion or bridal week, a solo show reflects on the brand’s strength. The controlled parameters of a standalone event involve having a private guest list, well-defined themes to controlled lighting and other aspects.

The event venue was given a makeover with walls of roses and petals strewn across the path that led to the main courtyard with bubbling fountains and floating diyas [oil lamps] for a surreal look.

In the voluminous trail gowns, shararas, anarkalis and saris to heavily embellished magnum opus creations, the stamp of Mughal influence could be seen in the Persian and rose motifs as the brand’s signature strength. In terms of design, the structured blouses, closed button necklines, jackets, capes and fitted bodices fell in the category of commercially viable. However, there were fewer options for brides who want a subtle look as the designs veered away from the minimalism and soft palette that we are accustomed to see in Pakistan. The collection was a grand take on the traditional silhouette with most of them in a classic shade of red. The scarf worn on saris hinted at New York Fashion Week where designer Anniesa Hasibuan showed a beautiful collection in hijab. There were also some menswear pieces and the one that Hasnain Lehri wore had way too much bling and seemed completely off.

“The ideology behind the collection is romance, love referring to the garden of paradise and also about the tale of two nations – the unsaid and untold stories between the two where there’s a feeling of oneness when it comes to shared cultural heritage, traditions and even likes and dislikes. We kept this in mind when we selected a heritage location and Ustad Rahat Fateh Ali Khan’s soulful vocals to complete the package.” – Saniya Dhir

The pick of the lot was a navy jumpsuit worn by Mehreen Syed with yards of fabric. It could also be worn as a separate piece. Another bespoke sindoori-red lehnga with a dominant vintage rose motif worn as a finale by actress Mahira Khan defined the look of a bride in all her splendor and aura.

Ali Zafar and Mahira Khan as showstoppers were immediate choices, according to Dhir, because they are icons of Pakistan and have also done so well out of the country. “Ali Zafar represents the new face of Pakistan and he has helped build a positive image of the country while Khan is everyone’s sweetheart and represents the traditional beauty which the brand is all about,” she said. “The ideology behind the collection is romance, love referring to the garden of paradise and also about the tale of two nations – the unsaid and untold stories between the two where there’s a feeling of oneness when it comes to shared cultural heritage, traditions and even likes and dislikes. We kept this in mind when we selected a heritage location and Ustad Rahat Fateh Ali Khan’s soulful vocals to complete the package.”

The evening was conceptualised by Sanya Dhir of Diva’ni with show direction and choreography by HSY, and hair and make-up by N-Pro and N-Gents.

Published in Dawn, Sunday Magazine, October 2nd, 2016