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Influenced by Turkish and Persian cuisine, Mughlai dishes, including kebabs, nihari and pulao, often have Persian names. The most predominant ingredients are garam masala, turmeric powder, red chilli powder, ginger and garlic (diced or in paste form), tomatoes and onions. Adaptations were, of course, made for each dish to give it its unique taste. Qorma benefited from the addition of peanut or sunflower oil, and pepper, nutmeg, lemon juice and fenugreek give tikkas their distinctive flavour, while the cream softens the meat and the charcoal grill lends it that smoky touch. Dry mango powder (amchur) lends chickpeas some pizzazz. Ingeniously, the Mughals used to soak them in bicarbonate of soda to achieve that perfect soft texture, compensating for the absence of pressure cookers. Steaming curries, with long pickled chillies gave rise to the much loved murgh achaar.
Naan, besani parathas and taaftaans are famed accompaniments to the curries — mouthwatering entities in their own right. Following the Arab concept of ending a meal with dessert, the lavish Mughal court was famous for its sweets, made mostly with almonds, rice, wheat flour or coconut, sweetened with sugar, scented with rose water, and adorned with rose petals or gold or silver leaf. No expense was spared when it came to serving food, as miniature paintings of this period show, depicting jade, silver and Chinese porcelain vessels being used in court banquets, the most lavish of which were thrown by Emperor Jehangir and Shah Jahan.
Not only is Mughlai cuisine sinfully delicious, it also includes essential nutrients, being designed to keep the mughals physically and mentally fit! (Notwithstanding the overload of rich dairy products and ghee used!) Almonds are used in specialties like baadaam ka halva as well as in qourmas to keep the brain active, whilst gajar ka halva is good for the eyes, apple chutney is used to strengthen the heart, and amla is employed to control blood pressure.
Over the years, preparing Mughlai food has evolved, with each region differing slightly in its cooking style. Meat dishes are marinated in yogurt and spices, then cooked very slowly on low flame in the marinade. Whole spices may be dry roasted in a frying pan, or fried in a bit of oil or ghee. Very little special equipment is needed to cook such food. Nonstick pots and pans work best, and replacing a steel stirring spoon with a wooden one adds an authentic touch to your food. For those willing to go the extra mile for authenticity, investing in a “tawa” to make traditional breads like chapattis and parathas isn't a bad idea. Using a karhai, a heavier and deeper relative of the Chinese wok, is a great alternative to ordinary deep frying, and is used especially for cooking meat dishes. Investing in a couple of metal skewers for threading meat and vegetables will be great for the tandoori recipes, whilst an electric spice grinder or even a simple mortar and pestle will be an invaluable tool to creating magic in your kitchen!
The tandoor, an earthen oven, is used to grill rotis and kebabs, as well as whole meat, tandoori style! Bread formed an integral part of Mughlai cuisine, with courtiers and kings savouring hot crispy naans from the tandoors, and puris (made from whole-wheat flour and oil) and bhaturas (made from white flour, yeast and oil) fried in karhais. Where rice was a staple, flat rice pancakes called dhosakas (dossas to us!) emerged, gaining quick popularity. Another popular staple was daal curry or sambhar.
It is pertinent to mention that the concept of “dastarkhan” originated from the Mughals, who used to lay a fine white cloth on the floor, over which the meal was laid. It was customary to eat with the fingers, which were washed in a sailabchi or finger bowl, before and after eating. Spoons and knives were usually used only for serving and carving. To end a hearty meal, the diners chewed paan, or betel nut leaf. This habit symbolises hospitality extended by the hosts to the guests, and seems to be a fitting conclusion to a feast fit for kings!
