For whom the bell tolls

Ever since the engine rolled off the tracks, there have been new dimensions to the distances, relations and emotions. Abaseen Express, Khyber Mail and Calcutta Mail were not just the names of the trains but the experiences of hearts and souls. Now that we live in the days of burnt and non functional trains, I still have a few pleasant memories associated with train travels. These memoirs are the dialogues I had with myself while sitting by the windows or standing at the door as the train moved on. In the era of Cloud and Wi-fi communications, I hope you will like them.

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Shaheed and Shahdara I Shaheed and Shahdara II Shaheed and Shahdara III

A road detaches the embankment on Ravi from the wall of the mausoleum. The inscription on the gravestone is warming in contrast with the chilling reality of death.

On the grave of the poor, there is no light and no flowers Neither burns the moth nor sings the nightingale

This is the final resting place of Nur Jehan, the only Mughal queen to have her name inscribed on coins. Her transformation from a widow of Sher Afgan, a court official, to the favorite queen of Jehangir is enchanting. Other than political acumen, her intuition was also prophetic. The tomb was deserted with only the exception of a gardener who trimmed the plants aimlessly. Seated on the steps of the neighboring Mausoleum, an old man told his version of history to a child.

“So when Mahabali Akbar and Maharani Jodha did not have kids for long, Mughal e Azam walked all the way to Fatehpur Sakery and met Salim ud Din Chishti, the saint. He expressed his desire for the heir of the Indian throne. The Faqir looked up in the sky and greeted him. After a few months, a son was born and was named after the saint, Salim Noor ud Din Jehangir. Akbar always called him 'Salim' or 'Sheikhu', his nick name.

Inside Jehangir's tomb, the inscription highlights:

“Illuminated grave of His Majesty, light of the religion, Muhammad Jehangir...the King”.

Silence reigns this tomb too. No bugle is played and no salutation is offered.

Shahdara sits at the apex of three railway lines. One of these lines run through Kala Khatai to Narowal via Narang Mandi. Kala Khatai, a sizable village pre-partition, was named after the two Sikh brothers, Akal Singh and Khatai Singh. They co-chaired the Panchayat and owned most of the village. After partition, both of them migrated and new people from Jallandhar settled here. It is now a small town with many ice factories and schools opened in houses.

The second line travels to Lahore. From this side of Ravi, Lahore appears as majestic and imposing as Kim observed it to be. Wide roads denote the untravelled destination and the rush exaggerates unexpressed ambitions. It is, by and large, a great memoir of greater people but so much has changed. The old residences are fast converting into restaurants and everything that is cultural is out for sale. Nostalgia has a market. From the debris, according to the Phoenician phenomenon, a new city raises its head.

Everyone is so obsessed with doing big in his life that he tramples upon the smaller wishes and blissful moments. People from the neighboring sleepy towns arrive in Lahore with larger than life ambitions but are scared to death after sensing the impetus of life. Going back is either too daring or too demanding. For settlers, it takes almost a generation to gain the metropolitan confidence, so flaunted by locals.

Seeing the difference between the small towns and big cities, I opted for the third line and left for the famed Baars. On this way, appear the anonymous stations of Missan Kalar and QiIla Sattar Shah. Another famous station is Cheecho Ki Mallian - the locals have also given up on deciphering the name. Astride the tracks were once the significant towns of Baddo and Khaki which reflected life but these names only make it to milestones with irrelevant miles written against them.

The ancient city of Jehangirabad is next on the track, for history is little more than the biography of kings. It has many references out of which Jahangirabad is the most prominent. Jahangir was fond of hunting so a large hunting ground was selected on the other side of Ravi, exclusively for him. After the passion subsided, the sanctuary developed into a city now known as Sheikhupura. Another Shiekhupura exists across the border near Badaun and that too is a tribute to a saint.

During one of the games, Jehangir caught an antelope which was soon tamed and given the title of Mansraj. It was so close to the king that he always carried rock salt for the animal. In one of his campaigns, as he shot an arrow, it accidentally hit Mansraj. The antelope did not die at the spot but strolled up to the king and died in his arms. His eyes said something; they either expressed the pain or indicated deceit, somehow, the king was struck with grief. On his next visit to Shiekhupura, he ordered the construction of the Hiran Menar.

Hiran Menar, today, comprises lush green lawns with a pond and a tower. In the heart of the garden, a magnificent pond adds to the beauty. A pathway connects the main land with the Barah-dari that sits in the centre of the pond. On the other side is the 100 feet long tower, marking the grave of Mansraj.

Traces of a marble plaque on the grave of Mansraj can also be found. Though the plaque is long gone, the abstract is written on one of the boards in the park:

“At this point, the King caught an antelope. Within a month, the animal was domesticated.”

On each side of the pond, the steps sink inside. A professor was lecturing his students on the importance of history.

“Jahangir always listened to his heart. Although a valued child, he was more of an heir to Akbar than a son, leaving an eternal void in his personality. Nur Jehan, Mansraj, Anarkali and Man Mati were all his attempts to plug the hole. It is amazing how one of the great Mughals was more involved with the emotional episodes and cared least about the Mughal Empire.”

The views expressed by this blogger and in the following reader comments do not necessarily reflect the views and policies of the Dawn Media Group.