EPICURIOUS : A PIZZA SHOWSTOPPER?

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The Neapolitan style pizzas at Braci | Photos by the writer
The Neapolitan style pizzas at Braci | Photos by the writer

You would be hard pressed to find an authentic shawarma in Karachi. Most shawarma variants offered in the city contain an overflowing amount of mayo when they should have toum (a sauce that makes you think you are snorting garlic), ketchup when it should have pickles, and a thick pita when it should be enveloped in a thin, lightly toasted bread called saj.

But pizzas are a different story.

Mushroom, ricotta and pesto pizza
Mushroom, ricotta and pesto pizza

The city has POMO and Redbrick Pizzeria for authentic wood-fired Neapolitan pizzas, a style known for using fresh tomatoes in their sauce and having a crispy, airy, charred crust; Famous O’s for the authentic New York slice that is thinner and foldable with a more seasoned tomato sauce; Xander’s for the brick-oven pizzas; and Venti, which draws on both New York and Neapolitan techniques, is now also making a comeback. And then, of course, there are the localised Karachi-style pizzas that are known for their deep pan crusts and heavy toppings.

But what happens when a new pizza place opens in a city that has plenty to choose from?

In a city that already has Neapolitan, New York and everything in between, what does a new pizza place need to do to stand out?

Enter Braci.

The order that arrived first: pepperoni with hot honey and margherita pizza (half and half)
The order that arrived first: pepperoni with hot honey and margherita pizza (half and half)

This is a small space which, when stretched out to the max, only accommodates five tables, two of which are two seaters and confined to the wall. What makes up for the limited space is the vibe. There is a brick wall, a bold orange-framed mirror to reflect the brand colours, a photo wall that carries barely visible polaroid photos and a small kitchen space that lets you see how your order is being prepared.

When you enter Braci, you think it is going to one of those places that focus on doing just one thing right and might have five to six offerings in total on the menu. But their menu is fairly extensive. There is, of course, pizza (eight flavours in total and Neapolitan style) but then they also have pasta (though these were unavailable the second time I went) and dessert, including eclairs and tiramisu.

The pesto gnocchi
The pesto gnocchi

As you read through the menu, you find the familiar margherita, pepperoni and ‘hot honey’ (a flavour that has taken over nearly every pizza menu in Karachi). It also has a flavour called ‘The Firecracker’, which — according to co-owner Saif Brohi —has “a desi taste.”

As we settle into our seats, my friend and I decide to order “everything on the menu” — a decision that makes me think I choose my friends well.

We order margherita, pepperoni and hot honey (half and half); we also get the Italian, which has chicken breast and spinach over marinara; and the ‘Showstopper’, which has roast beef, rocket, balsamic glaze and stracciatella cheese (half and half). Also, a full pie topped with mushroom, pesto and ricotta.

Someone decides to also add an order of pesto gnocchi to the mix and, of course, two chilled glasses of lemon and peach iced teas.

The pizzas come one after another instead of all at once. It gives us time to really appreciate each flavour. We start off with margherita and pepperoni, my friend and I each taking a slice, biting into it and, after a small pause, doing a respectful nod of approval in unison. The cheese, the crust and the sauce are exactly where they should be at. We decide to drizzle some hot honey over the pepperoni and take another bite — it holds up.

As more flavours gather around the table, we start reaching for different pies. The mushroom and pesto slice gets an audible “whoa”, with an appreciation for its punchy pesto resounding on the table. The Italian, which has spinach and grilled chicken, doesn’t impress. As time goes on, we start to feel a bit lukewarm about the margherita too but, admittedly, it now also has gone cold.

The pesto gnocchi is the least liked thing on the table, with the pasta being a bit dense and its presentation a bit gloopy.

The slice of the ‘Showstopper’ emerges as the clear winner. The salty roast beef and the soft stracciatella cheese complement the airy crust, while the rocket leaves and balsamic glaze offer a sweet sharpness. On my second visit to Braci, with a different group of friends, the Showstopper gets chosen as the best flavour again.

In a city that is not hungry to find new pizzas because there already exists a list of options, doing a good margherita, albeit appreciated, is not enough. What you need is a showstopper and, from the looks of it Braci, has got it.

The reviewer is a food writer and a digital content creator. Instagram: @GirlGottaEat

Published in Dawn, June 21st, 2026

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