I have been travelling for nine years now,” relates Britisher Will Hatton, popularly known around the world by his travel blog The Broke Backpacker. “I started when I was 19 after a permanent injury ended my plans to join the Royal Marines. I wasn’t sure what to do with my life, but I was determined to make the most of it and get on the road even though I had no money.” Nine years later, Will found himself travelling through Iran and Pakistan, two countries that would make a deep impression on him.

Falling in love with (and in) Iran

“The country simply blew my mind — the colours, sights, people and the incredible Islamic architecture,” said Will. “It’s safe to say that Iran changed my life.”

That statement holds true especially considering that he met his wife, Nina, in Iran. “We met on Tinder,” relates Will talking about the dating application used the world over but which is blocked in Iran. “We had to use a VPN to be able to use it,” he laughs. “We chatted for about two minutes and arranged to meet for coffee.”

Coffee turned into lunch which then turned into Will asking Nina if she would ‘hitchhike’ around Iran with him. He soon discovered that post-revolution Iran is a deeply-conservative country and ‘open’ mingling of the sexes, especially of the non-mehram kind is not allowed. “We ended up getting a temporary marriage (mutaa) a couple of days into our trip as we had the odd run-in with the police,” relates Will. “Ten months later we got married again — I returned to Iran for a big Persian wedding. I have now converted to Islam, which is more of a legal requirement than a spiritual one, and my Islamic name is Reza.”

After hitchhiking through Europe, Will Hatton came to Iran and Pakistan. And fell in love twice.Of the two things he fell in love with, one he married and the other he hopes to call his (annual) home

Iran doesn’t exactly get a lot of foreign tourists. Did he meet any? “I met two hitchhikers,” said Will, “The country is known for having very strict rules but the situation on ground is not quite as strict as people make it out to be. There are a lot of underground parties. I went to a couple and they were crazy.”

Top places he recommends in Iran: Shiraz and Esfahan. But what captured his heart was Hormuz. “The most beautiful place I have been to in nine years of travelling is the volcanic Island of Hormuz, off the coast of Iran,” says Will. “Chemal is an incredible place to go hiking and Persepolis really took my breath away.”

On what lies on ‘this’ side of the border

“Pakistan is a country unlike any other,” said Will. “I had already spent 18 months in India and I thought it would be similar. How wrong I was. The hospitality I encountered in Pakistan is simply the best in the world. I can honestly say that most of my close friends are Pakistanis.”

Will has been to Multan, Lahore, Islamabad and Swat but it’s the (formerly known as) Northern Areas that stole his heart. “The north is so unbelievably beautiful,” relates Will, “For a gringo like me; the south is just too hot most of the time. I was adopted into a local family in Ghulkin (Gilgit Baltistan) and I had to go back to visit them.”

He’s returning next year and bringing people with him. “I’ve decided to run a tour here,” he related. “I’m bringing 12 foreigners and showing them around the mountains. I am hoping to open a guest house in Gulkhin. I feel strongly attached to Pakistan and I hope to visit at least once a year. ”

To most outsiders, Pakistan doesn’t exactly come across as the safest country to travel to. Has he ever been concerned about security at all? “Right now, England seems more dangerous than Pakistan,” responds Will. “I personally feel very good about the police and especially the army — they will always help out a foreigner. I get the feeling that if anything was to go down in Pakistan, all of the local people would rush to help me.”

“Travelling, or anything exciting really, always comes with some element of risk,” adds Will, “but it’s also the things we don’t do in life that we regret the most. I believe in stepping out of my comfort zone in order to grow, learn new things, make new friends, etc. Pakistan provides all of that. If there are any risks, then it’s worth it.”

Will Hatton blogs about his adventures on *www.thebrokebackpacker.com** For more photos visit dawn.com*

Published in Dawn, Sunday Magazine February 5th, 2017