ISLAMABAD: Karachi-based designers Sherezade Rahimtoola and Shamsha Hashwani brought their collections of jewellery and clothing to the capital for a two day exhibition at Labels.

Sherezade’s brand has been known for its opulent jewellery for over two decades. Her pieces, which are best described as “wearable art”, are often donned by celebrities and designers. She is exhibiting in the capital for the second time, after a break of six years.

The dazzling collection at the exhibition harkened to a time when the subcontinent was ruled by maharajahs. On display were large sculpted medallions encrusted with diamonds, rubies, emeralds and other precious stones; multi-strand necklaces with engraved pendants; cocktail rings; cuff bracelets; cascading earrings and bangles.

For the designer who studied to be an architect many years ago before turning to jewellery design, her inspiration always comes from gemstones. Each piece is highly ornate and detailed and she manages to find the perfect balance between colour and shape by choosing the right stones and polish. For example, a pair of carved earrings encrusted with diamonds is given a black onyx background to make the silver standout. In another highly intricate bracelet, she encrusts gems onto a background of enamelled gold.

The collection includes everyday wear pieces such as stud and drop earrings in gold, diamond and pearl, semi-formal statement pieces as well as bridal sets. A large collar sized polki (raw-cut diamond) necklace stands out from the bridal collection.

Each piece has been handcrafted by craftsmen at her workshop in Karachi and Sherezade said she has also learnt polishing herself to ensure quality.

Sherezade’s jewellery using precious stones and gold and with the starting price of Rs35,000 is not affordable for everyone, but each piece is timeless and has the potential of becoming an heirloom.

“I use a variety of stones, sometimes replacing the more expensive stones such as emerald with less-expensive ones such as south sea pearls to bring down the price. However, I never compromise on my metal, always using the highest quality 22-karat gold,” she said.

Sherezade said the response in Islamabad had been great. “Some years ago, Islamabad was not a big market for designer jewellery, but it is growing at a phenomenal rate,” she said.

Sana Iqbal, a visitor to the exhibition, said the designs are unique. “I picked out a pair of diamond and emerald earrings yesterday but they were sold by the time I got here today,” she said.

Next to the glass cases displaying Sherezade’s jewellery collection was a mannequin draped with a stunning shawl covered in embroidery part of Shamsha Hashawani’s clothing collection. Scenes from a Mughal harem were embroidered on the ends of the shawl which resembled a miniature painting, except in thread. The entire shawl had intricate motifs embroidered by hand in resham thread.

“This piece took an entire year to complete,” said Shamsha.

Shamsha is Sherezade’s sister-in-law and is exhibiting her collection in Islamabad for the first time. “I have been designing clothes for the last four years and recently opened a boutique in Karachi,” she said.

This collection includes casual, semi formal, prêt and formal wear. Shamsha’s designs are adventurous using bold colours and making unexpected combinations. She describes her formal wear as ‘luxury pieces’ and they have a regal quality to them. Covered in hand embroidery in Resham thread along with with dabka and kora work in gold and silver and beads make her pieces highly ornate. While the motifs and work is very traditional, her cuts are modern and clean. The collection includes embroidered jackets and cigarette pants. Her colour palate is varied from the palest pinks to the brightest greens. “I am inspired by colour,” she said.

Shamsha’s choice of luxury fabrics and unusual motifs in her embroidery designs are the defining features of her collection. She uses high quality woven fabric such as pure silks and Banarsi chiffon. Motifs such as birds and floral designs in bright colours, reminiscent of Mughal art find their way into her designs making them very distinctive. “The response from people in Islamabad has been phenomenal. It’s a lovely city with lovely people and they have showered us with love and encouragement,” she said.

“I would love to bring my collection here again,” she added.

Published in Dawn, April 10th, 2015

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