In an attempt to blend creativity with commerce, the organisers of the fifth Pakistan Fashion Design Council Sunsilk Fashion Week held in Lahore dubbed the event as “the business of fashion.” And as a fashion and trade platform, it attempted to set trends, bring forth business propellers for its stakeholders in the form of international tie-ups, while with inclusion of voile shows and participation of textile mills, it accommodated producers who have the capacity to cater to large orders.

But while bustling catwalks, alluring fashion booths and enlightening fabric exhibitions were all there, what was overtly missing was the adequate presence of international eyes and ears. “Whatever I’ve seen here is wonderful work, but we cannot regard this event as a happening that will make international waves, as there is a lack of presence of international media and a sufficient number of foreign buyers,’ enunciated Paco De Jaimes, founder and CEO of World Fashion Organisation, while talking to Images on Sunday.  “For the local audience it might be a very big event, but we judge fashion weeks around the world in an international perspective. This is my third year in Pakistan and though the collections have evolved in a global way, the fashion events have not. ”

Putting to rest the alleged Lahore-Karachi haul within the PFDC, this year’s event was primarily Lahore-centric with the 24 participating designers and Hassan Sheharyar Yasin’s nascent event management team calling the shots. Make-up was by Toni&Guy, Maram and Aabroo and Khawar Riaz; Maheen Kardar Ali and Zara Shahjahan took care of stage management and Kamiar Rokni and Asim Naeem managed the backstage.

With a dash of swaggering World War I militaria, Nickie Nina’s prêt collection opened the show on the first day with Juggan Kazim as the show opener. Royal Military was quite a diversion from the brand’s known design sensibility. With actress/model Humaima Malik as showstopper, the lines of the collection were more straight and structured, while the colour palette was varied with an assortment of military insignia, medals and badges.

Khadijah Shah’s Elan gained prominence, reflecting Chinese motifs and Oriental imagery. The colour palette ranged from popping yellow, pink, lime and electric blue along with the use of neutrals. The pants, tops, jackets and shirts were all mixed and matched and the collection was indeed very pret.

Out of the six designers showcasing on the second day, most notable was Ammar Belal with Reunion 2012. It capitalised on the country’s coveted strength of producing the finest knitwear jersey fabric in the world. A highly spirited collection with idiosyncratic detailing, varsity lettering and sports stripes in funky colours stood out as the classy summer prêt wear for men, women and children. Featuring sharply tailored jackets and trousers, while rediscovering the iconic polo shirt with elaborate paneling in a gamut of colours, the collection was also quintessentially Bohemian.

One thing that is very often a feature of prêt collection ramps is that some of the collections cross the line and are not deemed fit to be paraded under the scope of ready-to-wear, and this fashion week was no exception. It seemed as if with every passing day the four-day event that seemed to have its style hicccups was heading more towards displaying what was really prêt.

In a collection as elegant, nuanced, and thoughtful, Asifa and Nabeel came up with another characteristically pret collection. Employing different hues of yellow, white and orange, the collection was very summery, with models donning chappals. Kohlapuris and matching accessories added to the charm of the summer wear. The collection was again one of those few ones that kept the local weather and wearability concerns in mind, while going for fusion.

On the third day, taking inspiration from the fanciful literary works of children’s author Dr Seuss, Karma came up with a collection based on cult classics such as The Cat in the Hat, and Horton Hears a Who. The design house beautifully utilised the motivation to come up with a catchy Karma Pink line. Also noteworthy were the ingenious pieces put to show by the students of Pakistan Institute of Fashion Design. Employing crisp cottons for ethnic looks adorned with Sindhi and Balochi embellishments, they followed straight cuts that were chic and audaciously pret. It was followed by an array of ball gowns and cocktail dresses in metallic greys and golds.

Khawar Riaz’s team did a great job with make-up and styling on the last day, making it subtle and sheer to compliment the prêt presentations. The day’s show was stolen by Kamiar Rokhni’s The Sweetest Taboo that drew inspiration from the ’80s.

Emphasising the trend of combining multiple prints and using lots of layering, the designer showcased a pleasing spring/summer collection. Rokhni’s specialty lay in his ability to use a combination of same prints to come up with multiple enduring looks. Also laudable was the fact that without even a fleck of embellishments, the designer came up with a collection that was truly endearing and another example of what prêt really is about.

Sania Maskatiya and Zara Shahjahan’s collections featured pieces that could be easily extended from the catwalk to the streets. Sania’s Uraan was based on the concept of flight and employed digital screen printed fabrics reflecting nature while Zara focused on being simple and pretty with Pretty Please.

Closing the shows was HSY’s Deluxe 2012. Using georgettes, chiffons, grip and linens, it was inspired by the luxury resort lifestyle of the Mediterranean. Done in white, gold and fawn, the pieces employed a lot of layering. The modern cuts featured a variation of length and volume, while the embellishments created surface texture with the use of embroideries.

In addition to buyers and agents attending the event, Jessica Humpus, Fashion Features Editor, Vogue.com was among those present.