0
Pakistan’s fashion industry needs to hit the pause button and stop cuing to the extreme future for a second. Established labels need to settle down and create sustainable systems. And while it’s good to give newcomers an opportunity they also need to be given time to develop a stronghold.
It isn’t ‘new’ fashion that one is necessarily looking out for anymore, but ‘consistent’ fashion. That means that one wishes to see Pakistan’s celebrated designers show regularly and unknown talents to show repeatedly until they have proven their net worth. Meanwhile, fashion weeks have become more regular than fashion designers. And with Showcase 2012 (a four-day event with buyers to facilitate trade) that took place recently, while the dynamics and logistics of the event remain to be time tested, one can appreciate some reputable and some promising labels shown at the event. Here’s what it had to offer…
Best Couture: Faiza Samee Pakistan’s veteran bridal couturier returned to the runway with a collection devoted to 18th century courtesans of South Asia. The craft and workmanship of each one of her exquisite pieces gave testament to the fact that while well-versed and groomed courtesans may not exist in the 21st century, the kind of attention paid to their courtly ensembles still does. Each one of the pieces had a vintage feel borrowed from hand-embroidered fabric while they were eased and made wearable by use of the designer’s trademark block prints.
Also: When it comes to couture Zaheer Abbas impressed with his simple, contemporary vision even though his choice of fabric (satin) was wrong. Considered too opulent and blingy by many, Honey Waqar—at the other end of the spectrum—showcased bridal gowns that honoured a very Middle Eastern ethos.
Diffusing towards luxury prêt, Maheen Karim had a winning collection save for some inconsistent pieces whereas Sanya Muneer and Nida Azwer showcased refined fusion-wear that fell short simply by being too predictable.
Best Bespoke: Amir Adnan Amir Adnan, Pakistan’s veritable king of sherwanis, lived up to his title by showcasing a capsule collection in ivory and ebony. The sherwanis, spruced up with detailed hand-embroidery, pleating and contrasting colour finishes, were an ode to the classic that impressed without leaning on theatrics or over styling for attention. Each timeless piece spoke for itself.
Also: One feels that Zahid Khan of the Lahore based label Kuki Concepts has potential, as his homage to Rumi was undoubtedly more impressive than his previous fashion week presentations. That said, clothes that derive their strength from art are usually more statement based and have the tendency of appearing more amateur than established.
Just as experimental and more interesting was Rizwanullah’s collection. Which—like Kuki’s—had a variety of menswear and womenswear. Denim served as canvas for artistic sprays of paint, while western silhouettes in this collection were diverse and edgy.
Best Ready to Wear: Sania Maskatiya Customized prints—both screens and digitally embroidered—have become Sania Maskatiya’s forte. She not only develops designs that provoke collections but she has a knack of playing with them in terms of jigsaw puzzle patchwork. It can be said of Sania’s collections that they derive character from prints that all fit into each other perfectly thus binding them into ready to wear fashion. This Matyala Collection that came in an earthy palette balanced by bold black and white embroidery was no different.
Also: Feeha Jamshed’s tribute to her sister Minnaal was the launch of her independent line ‘Feeha Jamshed’ that adhered to the Teejays philosophy in its modest modernity and yet tilted towards the western to reflect the designer’s own personal style. Feeha’s handle on fashion is indisputably strong but again, for a R2W collection to cross the line between better and best it has to be sufficiently available.
Wardha Saleem deviated from her usual palette to dabble in undertones of brown and cream. Jhirki was a strong collection that reflected her love for textures. Zainab Sajid showed potential as did Bareeze, Irfan Ali and even high street brand Ibrahim Hanif but one feels their short-coming was in choosing folkloric mood boards that have been done to death by now.
