GILGIT: Pakistan Army helicopters airlifted two stranded Russian climbers on Gasherbrum IV (7,925m) a day after an avalanche hit a group of five mountaineers who were trying to scale the sixth-highest mountain in Pakistan alpine style.

Out of the five, one was reportedly killed while two received injuries and awaited rescue in critical condition.

Shigar Deputy Commissioner Waliullah Falahi told Dawn that five Russian climbers Sergei Nilov, Mikhail Mironov, Alexy Bautin, Sergei Mironov and Evgenii Lablokov had started their mission to ascend the peak on August 4. On Saturday, a snow avalanche hit the climbers in the morning at a height of 6,400 metres.

As a result, Sergei Nilov went missing while Mikhail Mironov and Sergei Mironov were injured. Alexy Bautin and Evgeni Lablokov remained unhurt and were later rescued by the army and airlifted to Skardu.

Army rescues two mountaineers a day after avalanche hit Russian climbers on peak

Mr Bautin told Dawn they were hit by an avalanche, which started at 7,000m. He said Sergei Nilov lost his life whereas Mikhail Mironov and Sergei Mironov were injured, adding that he was in touch with his colleagues through satellite phone. According to Mr Bautin, his stranded comrades, though in a stable condition, needed immediate rescue.

Tour operator Ghulam Muhammad said helicopters couldn’t be operated on Sunday after the first sortie – which rescued the two climbers – due to poor weather conditions at the mountain. He said the climbers were stranded at an altitude of over 6,400m and helicopters could not land or hover in that area.

According to the operator, the helicopters will drop four local high-altitude climbers at 6,000 metres to rescue the stranded mountaineers. “The rescue team will attempt to bring down the injured Russian climbers from above 6,400m, and the army helicopters will airlift the climbers to Skardu, he added.

According to a press release issued by Karrar Haideri, secretary of the Alpine Club of Pakistan, a dedicated team of five Russian climbers set out on a mission to Gasherbrum IV, driven by a solemn commitment to retrieve the body of their fellow climber, Dmitry Golovchenko, who went missing on the same mountain in 2023. He said their expedition, marked by determination and camaraderie, was meant to bring closure to a tragic loss.

The statement said Sergei Nilov was missing, with no information available about his status whereas two of the climbers sustained severe injuries in the incident. “Their condition is critical, and there is little hope that they will survive beyond the next day, casting a further shadow over the already grim situation,” the statement added.

The alpine club secretary said the army helicopters would launch another rescue effort to locate the three missing climbers, including Sergei Nilov.

“The situation on Gasherbrum IV remains dire, with the outlook for the remaining team members growing increasingly bleak. This tragedy underscores the harsh and unpredictable dangers of high-altitude mountaineering, where even the best-prepared expeditions can face life-threatening challenges,” the statement said.

Published in Dawn, August 19th, 2024