KARACHI: Chawkandi graves suffering from neglect

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KARACHI, May 15: A number of weather-beaten graves in the centuries-old Chawkandi graveyard have been defaced with their beautifully-carved stones either missing or damaged.

The graveyard, located in the city’s outskirts off the national highway, is protected under the Antiquities Act under which stealing or damaging the site is punishable with heavy fines and long prison terms.

Sources said that the graveyard had been exposed to antique thieves, who could easily get away with the beautiful stones in the presence of only a couple of guards.

When this reporter visited the place recently, many grave stones were found missing, while some graves seemed damaged.

Responding to Dawn queries, Sindh-Punjab chief of the archaeology department Dr Mohammad Arif said that his office had sent a proposal for the restoration of the graveyard and replacement of the defaced or the damaged carved stones a long time back. However, the proposal was not approved yet, he said, adding that as soon as it was okayed renovation work would be started.

When director of the archaeology department’s headquarters Qasim Ali Qasim was asked about the proposal, he said that the restoration project was to be reviewed. He said, “Hopefully, it would soon be approved after which funds would be released and work would start.”

It is generally believed that Chawkandi, which literally means four corners, graves were built between the 15th and 18th centuries.

Built of yellow sandstone found in nearby Jungshahi hills in Thatta district, the graves are generally attributed to the Jokhio and Baloch tribes. The pyramidal but rectangular-shaped structures are normally two-and-half feet wide and five to eight feet long. However, unlike the modern graves most of these structures’ height ranges between four and 14 feet.

The intricate carving in geometric designs that cover the entire surface of the graves is unique in delicacy and gives an impression of wood carving. Similar designs are also found even nowadays in textile, pottery, wood carvings in Sindh and the neighbouring Balochistan.

It is a well-accepted fact that the graves of men are capped with stylized turbans and are occasionally carved with horses, arms, weapons, while those of women are decorated with jewellery such as anklets, bracelets, necklaces, rings and earrings.

Sources said that such graves could also be seen along the Makran Coast to the Indus River and up to Sehwan along the river. Most elaborately carved tombs are located at Handian, Lasbella, Malir, Dunblotte and Mirpur Sakro while on the east side of the Indus such sites are found at Gujjo, Tharriba, Sonda and Sehwan.

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